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I'm sure you can use any of the 1N400x series diodes (x=1,2,3,4, etc). Personally I think I'd drill the holes if necessary, and use 1N5408 diodes, rated for 3A at 1000V. They're dirt cheap and would be unlikely to blow again.
The pumps are a big solenoid, with the iron slug being the piston. The connection to the solenoid is normally closed, and when the piston moves, a switch opens, and a spring returns the piston. The pump's output is during the spring return stroke, so the output pressure is determined by that...
Just run your 002A and measure the secondary voltage. The primary should be 120. The current rating is small, well under 1A. I was not able to find T1 at a reasonable price, so I used a generic multi-tapped transformer. You can also measure your T1's secondary voltage while the generator is...
Yes, I thought you meant the non-center tapped one. I just checked, and the source of my transformer is not listing any more for sale. If you can't find one, I'd be happy to take the cover off my test rig and measure the output voltage. Then you can just get a generic replacement. If you...
It's a step-down transformer that supplies a voltage signal to the regulator board to tell the regulator about the generator output voltage. Wiring it backwards makes it a step-up transformer, attempting to apply a very high voltage to the regulator board and causing a very high current and...
I know you know more about your requirements than I do, but it might be cheaper to set up a soft-start for the big motor so you don't need 60 kW to get it running. 40 hp is only about 30 kW at full load.
It would be normal to get a small spark when first connecting the battery, as the 50μF capacitor charges, even if it's not leaky. Doing it again a few seconds later shouldn't make the spark because the capacitor should already be charged. Ten milliamps will take months to significantly...
I am also interested in what you learn. The local motor rebuilding shop owner told me that it's not practical to rebuild a motor rated at less than 100 HP these days.
Any of the 1N400X series (1N4001, 1N4002, etc.) will work fine. The 4001 is rated at 50V, the 4002 100V, on up to the 4007 at 1000V. All are 1 amp diodes. They are all inexpensive and available from the usual mail order suppliers. Radio Shack used to stock them, but I haven't checked them in...
Very true, but many meters have difficulty measuring the resistance (ohms) of a diode. Some have a setting specifically to test diodes. A simple battery and test lamp can test them just as well, once one end is disconnected from the circuit.
I know of no reason running this generator without load would hurt anything. Larger water cooled diesels can develop excessive deposits in their exhaust systems when run lightly loaded for long periods.
Or don't use the hold down bracket. Mine didn't come with any, and unless we get a bigger earthquake than the one we had in 2011... Of course if the generator is still on a trailer and towed around I can understand wanting it/them.