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Yup -agree- best way if your pockets are deep enough - some of our are not. Remember - if blower resistor goes bad, you loose that speed. If it somehow shorted, blower goes to high speed. No way to overload or blow fuse unless resistor terminals or element contacts grounded sheetmetal, which...

Blower resistor unit may still be servicable. Resistance increases as wire heats up. I would clean it up, squeeze crimps, bit of dielectric on terminals and try it loose. If it is OK, then install it.

That does not look like the isolated ground Alt I put in friend's truck.

Extra hole someone made for cable to equipment removed? All else fails- you can do what I did once. Connect shop vac hose to shop vac exhaust. Open a window enough to get hose thru. Seal with cardboard and duct tape. Fire up vac. Go around outside and under truck and feel/ see air blowing out...

I think you found problem!

Rick is right! A new stabilizer can mask loose front end parts. The damping may stop shakes, but has not corrected the loose parts.

I helped tow in the results of a Chevy 3500 getting the shakes at about 45 MPH after a pothole. The right front tie rod busted as the driver was slowing down. Right front wheel went sharply to the right, truck went right, over curb, through some signs, across sidewalk, even though driver turned...

I am not familiar with M939 5 ton - believe being newer, they have a full air brake system. I think I recall some kind of very dangerous brake lock - up problem and talk in 1990's of possibly retrofitting them with ABS. Some may have been retrofitted. The notice applies only if you have one that...

Sounds like they are afraid of a voltage spike if the batteries are disconnected while charging system is still in operation (engine running)

Ideal charge is in that range - 28 is ok for newer batteries, close to 29 for older ones that become harder to charge. The best way to check for adaquate charging voltage is with a hydrometer. If batteries show full charge after a good run, you got enough - if still don't, need a tad more...

To all my friends at Steel Soldiers: Happy Holidays and warm wishes to you and your family.

Not sure what you mean - the actual terminals on the lamp with the wiring connector unplugged, or the back of the wiring connector. Suggest you not buy anymore parts until this is diagnosed.

If really want to, could use a heavier wall tubing with same OD or stronger tubing, like chrome molly, but, since the shear pin did not shear, then you transfer the failure point to the next weakest link, which may be inside the winch itself.

And there would be Lots of pressure at the radiator cap, to say the least! Steam builds pressure

If you could get a new crown vic period:rant:

Yes. The floppy discs had the operating system on them! No hard drive. You saved your work to a floppy.

I used and remember all - got rid of 300 baud at least 20 years ago. then 1200 external, 2400 internal cards....... Freshman year college - 1960's, Acoustic coupler and punch cards were state of the art.

Doubt it has AC - don't see any signs of it.

NO! Suggest you get power from known source - the battery and test the bulbs. Don't buy anymore parts you don't need. We can go from there.:beer:

Before you spend $ for bulbs, remove wires 17 and 18 from bulbs. Leave wire 91 connected. Jumper wire directly from 24 volt hot side of batteries to 17 - light? now try 18 - light? if it lights on only 17 or only 18, bulb is bad. If lights on both 17 and 18, bulb is good. If it lights on...