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That would be fraud.

The diesel forum on CK5 can answer this. I've got a thread there fairly recently about this.

Hmmm, I thought you could see it but not post. At any rate yep, it's supposed to be one of the better things you can do to take the slop out of the steering. Between that and my ORD brace I'm hoping for some pretty firm steering.

XJ steering swap: CK5 Forums Once again showing why CK5 is the greatest for 73-87(91) GM fullsize tech. Basically you're replacing the stock steering shaft from the column to the steering box and it's rag joint with a 80's-early 90's Jeep Cherokee XJ shaft that has a u-joint. Only works on 80's...

Right...sure...cause everything in the aftermarket is junk and we should always pay the extremely insane prices GM always wants at the parts counters for stuff they haven't made since the early 90's.:roll: $73 CDR valves come to mind. JCWhitney sells tanks and I think they even have the poly...

Nah, those should fit just fine. Bit of trimming at the bottom edges at most. Looks good. Check your drag link to make sure you can't touch it when you're turned all the way to the right.

Cool. Ought to do mine but I'm waiting until I do the XJ steering shaft swap too. Question though...how would bigger tires make the steering wheel off center?:?:

Cutting the fenders makes them fit too.:-D <---38's with 1" of lift and cut fenders.

I've got their 83-84 Chevy grill on Big Ugly. For the price it's great. Not as nice as GM's or even one of the $60 aftermarket grills but it's perfectly workable, fits, and looks correct. I have heard their sheetmetal is on the thin side but don't use me as a bible. I had a friend in NJ ship...

Tired...sleepy...long day at work...don't expect perfect recall...

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/496420/fullsize/055.jpg Notice the big hub sticking out inside of the "circle" of the wheel studs? If it has that it's a FF. If it doesn't have it then it's a SF. Also go read that Pirate 4x4 thread linked earlier as it will show you the difference in the...

Several guys on CK5 have done it. What's his face on here who's doing the Cummins swap has done it WITH the axle relocation.

The front axle on these trucks is actually about 1.25" towards the rear of the wheel well in the stock position. Not so big of a problem until you compress the front suspension and the tires go further towards the rear of that wheel well opening and into the fenders. Guys like to move them...

Got a set of those under the front of mine. Did you move your front axle forward at all? I'd like to do that with mine.

TH400+ 6.2 = no OD for high speed. That's why GM went with the 3.08's, so the M1009's could buzz down the freeways and surface streets. The word I'm hearing on CK5 is that the ticket for running 36-37's on a M1009 is 3.73 gears. If you don't want to go that big I'd say find one of the in...

I got it. Realm, just so you know with 4.10's and 33's you'd be VERY low geared and the 6.2L would not be happy.

Semi-floater.:wink:

Well, for hard wheeling and tires bigger than 35's you'd probably need a D60 front. Below that a D44 or 10 bolt would serve you well.

Yep, follow the link there and it explains most of it. The easiest recognizable features of the 14FF are the large hub sticking out from the wheel surface (or the drum brake if there's no wheels) and the distinctive "peaked" shape to the diff and cover. The 14SF is rounder and has no hubs.

Well, what size tires are you planning on and what sort of wheeling? BTW, skip the D60 in the rear. Waist of time when there's plenty of stronger, cheaper, and more available 14FF's out there.