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The military wouldn't run anything that wide and that short. Considered 285/75R16 (33x11.25R16) or 255/85R16 (33x10ishR16) on stock 16x6.5's? If you did go the Stockton route you'd be better off with 15x8's unless you really want that "deep dish" look of the 15x10's. 33x12.5's on 15x8's look...

Check out some of the Cragars and American Racing wheels on Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts | 800-230-3030 .

He's selling his 16.5" rims with the HMMWV tires.

AllenEM, yes, there is but you're on the ragged edge of survivability with those 10 bolt axles and running 36" tires with 3.08 gears is bad juju! ts, don't think you can run the HMMWV rims backwards. The lug nuts wouldn't seat...not to mention you'd have like 2" of backspacing and the tires...

Check eBay but they seem to be drying up again...maybe for the last time. The Marine Corps surplused them all out a good while ago now.

It's rare for any tire to measure out at the stated height. I had the 36x12.5-16.5 bias plies on my 1008 when I first got it and the two in the rear were about 34.5" tall and the front slightly shorter under the weight of the engine. When I put my "theoretically" 2" taller 38" tall 11.00R16's...

Those are 36x12.5-16.5 Goodyear Wrangler RT/II's from HMMWV's.

I thought they were always that particular Marine green? When I was in 97-01 all the pickups were solid green with...I wanna say...yellow markings. Don't recall seeing a Marine M1009 and for sure none of them were camo.

76-91 all used the same half cab top. 73-75 had the full cab top but the same overall body style. 69-72 was the original body style.

Those vent visors are also a great way to make a square, un-aerodynamic truck even more drag inducing. They were great in the era of fluorescent suspension components and 16 shocks with 14" of lift but they serve no purpose other than to eat up mpg's.

Tinted windows.

Sounds like I will be traveling with a large "pack" so I think I'll not be coming guys. Thanks though.

Sorta like a PCV valve for a diesel. Hard and not cheap to find OEM replacements for except for our man here.

Good advice there. I dunno what Suzuki put on my wife's drain plugs but after 6 years they won't budge. Now I need to loosen AND replace several.

Word of advice if it's in there firmly try and tap the 3/8" end of a 3/8" - 1/2" adapter in and then put your 1/2" ratchet on it. I usually find I can't get them loose with the 3/8" ratchets. They're usually just not long enough for me to get the needed torque on them.

Stock is 160hp for the J code engines. Torque is up near 265ft/lbs I want to say. Going up hills at high speed and pulling a stuck truck out are two different things. You get to best use the low torque curve and the help of low range at low speed. I've wondered about finding a set of 3.42...

No harm no foul.:-D

Dodge Lift Kit Wellllllll...that depends on the 1 ton you'd be running but yeah, with these K30's there's not much point in a $1500 shock.

Eh, NAPA's Truck Shocks are actually nitrogen charged monotubes and can be had for $25 each or so. They usually even have the big book o'shocks with the mount types and expanded and collapsed dimensions so you can find shocks just like what you need. Welcome to the world of trucks and not...

They're not $50 shocks. They're $30 shocks at best with the $20 name. You can buy real Bilsteins for these trucks for about $60 each if you look around and even cheaper sometimes. I got Rough Country Nitro 9000's for $35 each from JCWhitney with free shipping last year. They're nitrogen...