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While re-routing the wires on the passenger side because I had them on the outside of the fuel lines, I'm afraid I'm destroying the alternator. The bolt holding the red and orange wires was on tight and while trying to loosen it, I broke the wire end connections. I'm not worried about those, but...

That's the one. PM sent. Thank you! I've been to few places this morning trying to find a suitable replacement and haven't found anything yet.

The bottom one.

The truck is kicking my butt today. The plastic drain plug on the fuel filter housing broke. I tightened it down too tight and it snapped. Any suggestions on fixing that? I wonder if Home Depot has a fitting in the plumbing section that would work. But, the pump is on.

I'm planning on starting the truck before bolting the intake manifold on to check for leaks easier. To do that, does the vacuum pump need to be bolted back up correctly? Right now, it's twisted/rotated out of the way to remove the intake manifold.

Nice video!!! I'm still doing a little cleaning today, but this sounds like a good plan. Hoping to have it bolted on before the day is over.

About 60k now. I've put about 5k+ on it. I think those PDF docs may have to do with pump timing/specs and not engine timing. I imagine the guys that rebuilt my pump would find those docs more useful. CUCVRUS, I can be a little obsessive at times. Unfortunately for me, it's not as simple as bolt...

I emailed Stanadyne asking about pump DB2 4521 and they sent me two PDF files. I'm need to study them more to determine if this tells me where to put the marks when installing the pump.

Nice stuff... paint the speaker grills green. ;-)

I found this info in the 6.2 TM. It states where to put the pump alignment according to pump type. The problem is, my pump isn't listed. My pump is DB2 4521.

Have the fuel lines and fuel feed attached to the injection pump. I had to go to a friends house to use his vice to clamp down the pump. Everything is TIGHT. I'm hoping I didn't get them too tight. Tomorrow begins the install.

Thanks for the support! CUCVLOVER, what happened to the video? I didn't get a chance to watch yet.

Thanks for the info everyone! I'm starting the reassembly process Thursday (tomorrow) morning. I figure I'll start with attaching fuel lines to the pump. Any tips regarding that?

Hmm... The only marks I checked before removing was the transmission vacuum device bolts.

The plan is to begin installing the pump on Thursday. From what I've read, the J codes have more power.

I received an injection pump today. It's not the one I sent out, though. I thought they were rebuilding the one I sent, but it seems it's just an exchange. What do the codes mean on the tag? I thought the "J" on my old pump meant J code for the CUCV's. The new pump has "SH". Is this a civilian...

This is what I ended up doing today. It's not as good as if I could have removed them, sanded and painted properly, but it is already a nice looking improvement. Since I already took the bolts out of the valve covers, I'm hoping I didn't open a can of worms. I need to go look up the bolt pattern...

I'll admit, I've considered putting the bolts right back in!

They're on pretty tight, but I guess this is what I'll have to do, just keep working at it. I don't know how solid they are and don't want to be too rough and bend them out of shape any. I think the screwdriver I was using was too big. I need try a thinner one.

Wow, nice!!!!