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sorry, meant to ask where are you getting your treatments from?

what are you treating your stored fuel with, and where are you getting it?

awesome ideas!

I got one of these to work for mine. You will need to add a momentary switch for the pre-heat function. ebay: search for NSN5930014989903 Be aware that this also has a plastic stalk and is prone to break just like the v1 and v2 original switches listed above ^^^

I used 4awg for the hots and neutral, and 6awg for the ground. Depending on run length you may need to size up.

Sorry, I misread this question as 'is starting voltage getting to the starter?'. I'll check it out tomorrow.

son of a biscuit... I removed A2, tried it in the other generator, no issues. Reinstall original A2 back into faulty generator...the darn thing starts right up. I don't know what to think, except maybe some relay got stuck and the jostling of R&R freed it. Regardless, I'm going to put it all...

Unplugged the fault indicator panel, A2, and it started right up. going to swap it into the other generator and see if the condition follows the panel. Is the a schematic for the panel? Is it something we can repair?

S1 in run, negative probe on rivet at dead crank switch 143C = 11.76 126A = 20.67 those should both be 0 or close to it <1V?

If i disconnect the LOP switch, same behavior. Assuming I'm disconnecting the correct thing. Unhooking the two red connectors in the below pic. The only thing I've found that will let it run, is either holding the test/rest on the fault panel, or pulling the LOP relay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxDCoLTonQg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ow716a_DNdI

starter engages as it should.

What I have is K16 closes when S1 moved to Run, K20 closes immediately after S1 is moved to Start, engine turns, then a split second later, K20 & K16 open, K12(Engine Fault Relay) closes, and the engine shuts down with LOP Fault Indicator lit. All other relays behave as expected.

Additional info for those curious: Normal Operation: S1 in either Run position, not running = K16(Crank Disconnect) closed S1 in Start(beginning) = K15(Field Flash) closed, K16 closed, K20(Low Oil Pressure) closed S1 in Start(after running at speed) = K15 closed, K20 closed S1 in either Run...

Confirmed P8 K20 continuous to P8 K16 with the LOP switch connected, open when disconnected. I confirmed that the LOP switch is working per TM, i.e. closed when not running, open when running. Also, no change in starting behavior with the switch connected or not. The fault comes on after a...

Flipping battle short after running did work. Oil pressure was around 50. The LOP fault stayed lit. I found that the battle short lights works by testing(pushing in), but it does not illuminate when the switch is up. So, that's another thing to look into. No change after the following...

got the switch wired in. I'm getting an immediate low oil fault during cranking, then it goes dead. I checked the oil, it is not low oil. It was doing this before the switch broke, though it broke before I could confirm it was not user error, i.e. releasing from start too soon. Battle short...

Switch was delivered yesterday. Planning to put the trailer back in the yard under a tarp and move the generator into the garage to get it fixed up.

I accidentally started it without pre-heat at 27 degrees F, sputtered a bit, but fired off.

Prep was knocking off all the CARC flakes and rust scale with a Harbor Freight needle scaler and then washing down with simple green. Paint was done with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun run at 60ish PSI, Behr Marquee thinned 25% with winshield washer fluid(methanol). 4 Hours between coats.