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You mean a CUCV IV? They've already done a II and III.

I just had my transmission serviced while I had a mechanic replacing a flex plate. I thought he was nuts to want to put in almost 2 gallons of ATF when the LO stated 4.0 quarts, but I guess I'm not the only one confused. Anyway, it's supposed to be checked hot on the dipstick, while running...

Ah good, the 40-182 was the one listed for the Blazer already, so I guess I can just swap the motor now and worry about the pump thing later, to see if this fixes my blade park issue. Might go pick that up today.

After getting my flex plate replaced since it decided to round out 4 bolt holes and then rip them out, I fixed the tailgate crank so it doesn't fall out in your hands any more when unlocked. Works like new now! Also installed Battery Bugs and a freeze plug block heater a while back.

I cleaned all my contacts, still not working so I'm thinking about replacing the motor. Is this a part I should be able to find at NAPA or Advance? After searching all I seem to be finding is the same part as the Blazer has.

When I googled for that number, I found a few places listing the ability to make an RFQ like I said. Even then, since it's sold out, and doesn't tell me anything about the part, that site still isn't really telling me much I want to know. Maybe if I keep digging and digging I might eventually...

They can cross reference by NIIN/NSN? I wasn't aware of that.

I'm not trying to find someone who _has_ a CUCV torque converter, I'm trying to find out what that torque converter is. All the Googling I did didn't lead me to that information yet, like I said, the best I got was the link in the first post had what looked like several possibilities. I mean...

Yeah, but nothing there seems to translate to an actual GM part. If I were filling out a military RFQ, that would be helpful, but I'm just trying to get it from NAPA or something...

Hi, back to this again. Trying to make a decision on what I'd want to get. Does anyone know which converter the 1009 has stock? I still couldn't find if this was a GM3 or a GM6, and I fear this is an area where the civvy version isn't going to match.

Well, I've done a lot of searching around here, and haven't been able to find out what kind of actual parts/specs to look for in a replacement torque converter. From what I can see, the original parts for the 6.2/TH400 are the 3 bolt GM3, and the 6 bolt GM6. NAPA sells rebuilts from Pro-King...

Stock vehicles with electric fuel pumps behave the same way. Ignition on engages the fuel pump, it's intended behavior. The 8131 pumps at a max 14psi, which I think the low pressure side of the fuel system should be fine with. I doubt anything could be hurt with your setup. Instead of...

For anyone who lives near a Rural King store, their ad last week advertised a No Sales Tax Saturday. I missed that but they listed a Group 31 battery (925 CCA) for $75. From what I've seen, that's a pretty good deal. Would have been better with their tax discount but even with tax, if they...

cmroles, your avatar made me lol, because I've used that same type of stepladder for that purpose.

Nick, I wasn't making any argument about what you said, just adding clarification in case some forum searcher ran across this thread. Or if the OP figures out his rear main was also leaking, he might not need to replace his if it's not shot.

Now that the weather's warming up, the truck starts nice so I took it camping last night. I am pretty sure it's a failing torque converter, and I say failing because it would seem to be getting worse, as in making more and louder noises the more I drive it, so I'm probably going to keep that to...

Tightening that nut did seem to stop it from leaking. I may still just take it off and put a straight adapter in though anyway, just to be safe, but it works for diagnostics for now until I get the gauge in permanently.

Just for posterity, a rear main seal can be caused by a failing CDR, and also fixed by cleaning/replacing the CDR, if the seal isn't shot. If it's coming from the driver's side though, it's probably not a rear main leak right?

Yeah that crossed my mind, but I don't think the hardware on the other side of the valve bolted up nicely without needing additional parts. But I suppose getting an adapter would be easier than a replacement valve.

I got the mechanical gauge after all, installed it temporarily in the engine compartment. Bit of an issue though, the little valve in the attached pic leaks when I open it up to let pressure reach the gauge. Should I have hooked it up in a way that it doesn't need that valve, or do I just need...