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Thank you for all your hard work. The shakes are finally starting to subside.

"I know my post doesn't help the OP much other than to give advice to move to the country where nobody cares where you park your trucks." Now, you're catchin' on.

Bypass it yes, but put a pyro in first. I bypassed mine and didn't have to mess with the fuel screws at all. Runs strong, but the temps can get away from you quick in 4th and 5th.

Bump! Now that is what you call a set up. Complete and automated as well.

I don't know how I managed to miss that thread. That set up is way cool. Maybe further on down the line, I can get myself set up that well. I thought the bowl was one of the bought ones until I saw in your original thread that you had made it up. It looks very smooth. See, I told everybody I...

o1951, thanks for trying. I did like your numbers better. I came up with the 1853 number as well. Funny thing is, a couple of weeks ago, I found a formula on some website and came up with just over 2000g. I saved it on my desktop at work. Unfortunately, I am still out with the knee and don't...

The rotor is 11" in diameter. The spin is 3450 RPM. Sheaves on motor and shaft are the same size. Works out to about 2000g. Left a belt in there for allow some slip during start-up.

The idea that one can mark an imbalance with a marker/crayon does have some history. I worked at a shop that had about 5 different methods of balancing tires. One of them used a light to find the imbalance. A switch was mounted such that it was actuated by the lower control arm as the arm...

Nice lookin' truck. If those paperclips came on it from DRMO, you may have gotten a truck with lockers. That would be too cool.

Thanks for the responses. I LIKE it! Simplecentrifuge was one of the ones I looked at and had determined that would be the one if I decided to buy. I saw the cone shaped insert and also saw the $100 price tag. The way I got the fluid into the bottom of the bowl is with that section of copper...

And a VERY nice one it is.

"If the OP doesn't mind, I'll try to post up some pics of the setup I tinkered with. (I still have it actually) Same principal, much smaller scale." Absolutely I would NOT mind at all. The more info the better. My major goal here is to make cleaner fuel for my heater. Cleaner reduces wear...

Here's the result of the first run. It ended up being about 40 gallons, it was unthinned and unheated, but had been previously filtered down to 5 microns. The first three are what I scraped out with my finger, the next ones are how I thinned it with about an ounce of gas and then ran it...

Looking after I posted, I really need to get a lathe and a tig welder.

Thanks for the interest. To answer some of the questions: 1.The keyed sleeve in the center is a coupling from McMaster-Carr. 2.Yes, it is bolted to the floor with anchor bolts. There is enough shake that the whole assembly wants to walk around. I didn't know how wavy my floor was until I set...

Hello all. I intended to post this up later (first run is not complete), but got dared and couldn't resist. Here's the background: I bought some surplus tent heaters and was interested in burning WMO in them. I already have a filtration set up working for other reasons so I already had some...

@o1951, ask and ye shall receive, but don't want to highjack the man's thread. Am going to post up in Alternative fuels.

Bought a 925 to get tires and maybe some other stuff for the deuce. Figured I could part out the rest to recoup the cost. Problem is, now I'm in love and want to keep the 5ton. If I can figure out how to feed it and still be able to afford food, the deuce may be going away.

@ Beyond Biodiesel, are the precipitates a result of a chemical reaction or are they the result of heavier particles settling out of a thinner mix? I am asking because I am experimenting with the feeding of a NHC 250. I mixed a batch of WMO with gasoline until the viscosity was about the same as...