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Well, unfortunately I sliced it long ways because it was sized onto the filler neck. I sliconed down the slit on both sides and duct taped around it. Maybe it'll seep a little, maybe not. As long as I don't overfill it, it's just a funnel I guess, there shouldn't be fuel sitting in there. I...

Anyone ever have occasion to replace the fuel tank filler hose on an M1008? I cut mine apart while taking down the fuel tank, and the replacement I ordered from LMC doesn't fit. Looks like the original was wider on the filler side than on the tank side, by quite a bit. The LMC one is the same...

Yeah, I just noticed that. I've got the tank off for replacement and here's this stray fuel line just blocked off 4" from the sending unit. I'm glad to hear that it's that way on yours too and not just some hack job from the previous owner!

I see three fuel lines going to my sending unit. What is the third one? There'd be fuel from the tank, fuel back to the tank, and ?? Maybe vent? But where does the line go, since there's no charcoal cannister or anything like that? Not urgent, I'm just curious and I haven't taken the time...

I'm pretty sure there are glow plugs available now that are self limiting, meaning that they won't burn up if you apply power for too long. I haven't looked at it in too much detail yet since my system is still working, but you can find more info on a dedicated diesel forum.

Oh, okay. In any case , it seems that a failure mode of these meters is for the contact to go away between the lugs and the resistor. I cleaned up one and it seemed to start working. Another I had to replace with new resitors. 350 ohms seems to be the right value.

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out what to carry with me. Thoughit'd be nice if it fit in the spots that are already there. The newer GM scissor jacks look better than the old things, but I'm not sure if they'd fit.

Is the jack that goes behind the seat the same as any jack from a 73-87 (or is it 73-91) pickup? If so, are all the jacks the same across 1/2, 3/4, and 1-ton?

I believe you would need to buy the temp switch and possibly a new temp sensor too. In my case they installed without the temp swith, and I'm not too stressed about it. I doubt it'll make a significant difference to the life of the plugs. At some point I might wire up a manual temp switch -...

My CUCV has a civilian GP controller. Looks like an easy swap, just go off the 12V power lugs. Besides power and the plugs themselves, you just need to make the connections for start, crank and "wait" I believe.

Well, in case anyone else has this problem some day, here's what I did. I saw infinite resistance between the two non-ground lugs. I think there should be some there, as I explained previously. I went and got some 1 Watt, 100 ohm resistors and put 3 of them in series between these two lugs...

I've been beating my head against the wall trying to get my M1008 voltmeter to work. I took it to work and attached it to a power supply and it seemed like it was working, but when I attached it to the truck it didn't. So I took it off and traced all the wires around and stuff... well, turns...

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I have a ton of documentation on my M1008, but no operator's manual, unless it's hidden someplace and I haven't found it... I'd like to have a picture of the panel with little arrows pointing at all the indicators. I'm not even sure what I'm supposed to have and whether or not they are...

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Does someone have a picture they can put up showing how they securely mounted a normal battery to the M1008 battery trays? I've got the original tie downs, but I can't seem to figure out how to make it work. For one thing, the battery is short relative to the mounting hardware. The studs run...