Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I just wanted to let everyone know that Diesel Power magazine's May 2010 issue has budget build sheets and resource listings for the 6.2L and 6.5L engines! If anything it has some great information on where to get parts. They claim to have a build checklist for a 500hp 6.2/6.5! Budgets from...
You prime the system by: 1. Disconnect the pink primary wire from the injection pump. 2. Hook a small hose to the filter bleed port (may already have one there) 3. Open turn knob on top of filter assembly. (Black plastic thing with a + shape) 4. Crank the engine until fuel shoots out of hose...
My M1008 tailgate does the exact same thing. They probably dropped something on it and bent the hinge. I haven't looked into the cause yet. Waiting for consistently good weather before I start doing body work. Keep us posted though if you figure it out! Good luck!
It's usually the lift pump. It would make your IP pump work like crap if the lift pump is going too. They are about $45 at Advance Auto parts. Could be the air bleeder valve on the filter or the filter itself too.
You try LMC Truck? They usually have all those little restoration parts. Their website is LMC Truck Parts: Chevy Chevrolet Blazer S10 GMC Jimmy S15 Ford Bronco Ranger Pickup Pick Up Accessories/Catalogs I believe.
Hmmm.... If it isn't airlock in the fuel line, it might just be the solenoid. If that isn't it, check lift pump operation. Hopefully it is just an air bubble in the fuel line. These motors are pretty simple, so there isn't much to go wrong with them. Did you check voltage with a test light or...
It's possible that the solenoid is bad, but I'd check a few other things first. Check to make sure you don't have air in the fuel system by bleeding the fuel filter. From there I would check your glow plugs wires to make sure they are getting power from the relay. (Not sure what weather you are...
The governor would override the shift modulator at the RPMs he is traveling at even if the solenoid was all the way open. It would just shift like a mofo when it did shift. If he is getting smoke and loss of power, it is almost definitely fuel related.
Have you checked for leaks from the...
It's the rectifier bridge in the alternator. Probably the driver's side one. Mine did the exact same thing. Alternator was fried. It charged decent when the engine was running, but as soon as I would turn off the truck, my dash lights would come on due to it back-feeding 12v though the diodes.
I got the radials. They do alright off road and they ride really nice and quiet on the road. Though one of them is shaped like an egg. Can't complain though... I got the set of 4 in nearly brand-new condition for $400. They are all over Ebay.
I am running an Offroad Design 2.5" rear spring shackle flip bracket, 6" shackles, stock rear springs, and 4" lift springs in the front. This setup gives me 4" of total lift all around. I'm running 37"x12.5"x16.5" Goodyear Humvee tires on 16.5"x10" rims with 4.5" of backspacing. I had to do...
Yeah. I like having my 24v starter in winter. My 12v system on my 6.5TD Suburban is near worthless when the temps get below zero, but my M1008 will crank right over.
I agree with the adjusters. Use a good lithium or silicone grease that won't wash away quickly. GM recommends lithium grease. I think new adjusters are like $10 from Advance Auto Parts.
Measure the inside diameter of your brake drum and also measure the width of the brake shoes that are on it now. That is usually the best way to determine which setup you have.
Hmmm.... That's a good one! I can't really tell from the picture, but is your E-Brake hooked up? That has a large pin and washer like that to hold it to the brake shoe. (Think it is in that hole in the lower-left of your pic) I can't see the rest of the brake system, so I'm not saying that is...