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Step 32.
Engine Removal.
There are many ways to pull out a motor. Factors may vary depending on if your ride is lifted or not and what you have to remove it with.
Since my ride has about 5 1/2” of lift with 37” tires, my cherry picker will not lift the motor high enough to clear the radiator...
Step 31.
Hood Removal.
Before you remove the hood... Triple check that everything is out of the way of the motor and nothing will hold the motor back from removing it.
In my case I forgot to remove the transmission cooler hard lines from the motor clamp mounts.
Use a 13mm standard size...
Step 30.
Power Steering Pump Removal
Use a 15mm long socket wrench with leverage bar, extension and loosen the 3 driver side alternator bolts. Disconnect the belt from alternator.
Use a 1” wrench and disconnect the top hose from the power steering pump. Have a bowel ready to catch the fluid...
Step 29.
Motor mount removal.
For safety reasons, put a Jack under the motor. You do not want to risk a 700+pound motor falling on your face. Accidents can and will happen.
Spray and wire brush the ends of all 6 motor mount bolts until satisfied they are clean.
Use a 14mm standard depth...
Step 28.
Remove exhaust from manifolds.
Chances are your nuts and studs on your manifolds holding the exhaust will be so corroded and baked that you will not be able to remove them without breaking a few of them.
Here’s a helpful trick...
Get some WD-40 and spray the nuts and studs. Use a...
Step 27.
Flex plate/Torque Converter bolt removal.
Use a 24mm socket and breaker bar or torque wrench. Place it on the 24mm crank bolt on the front lower end of your motor. Crank the motor with the torque wrench or breaker bar until a flex plate bolt is exposed.
Now use a 15mm wrench doubled...
I was wondering if there has been tests done that show this kit lowers the temperatures in the rear of the block with a laser temperature gun pre install and post install?
If you go to an electric lift pump I recommend taking out the old mechanical pump and put a plate that covers where the old pump was. Make sure you take out the rod. Picture below. O’Reilly auto parts sells them.
The mechanical pump will make thumping noises if still connected to the block...
When my resisters went bad I changed the glow plugs that had literally melted inside the heads. The fried resister was only doing 6.5 v out of itself and 6.5v to each new glow plug.
That is why I like the G60s. No matter what I gave them for voltage, they stay at a 10.5v each plug. If a plug...
I love it! It was worth every penny because I don’t have to worry about the dash cracking and hearing all those weird cab noises from the old dash popping and rattling from the expanding, contracting and body flex.
It gave me room for all the gauges and switches. Plus the cool factor! I am...
I highly recommend replacing all the 6.5 gaskets, add Arp studs, new lifters, girdle and Fluidampr before putting the 6.5 in.
I call it a bomb proof refresher. At least you can add a bigger turbo down the road if you wanted to and know your motor can handle it.
Even the 599 blocks can crack...
I added stainless steel 3” exhaust pipes with flow master mufflers. It sound soooo nice!
PSC power steering reserve added
Lots of pretty colorful switches
Did a lot of fixing on it too!
Added rock tamer mudflaps with some girls
Friend of mine made a removable licence plate holder for me that...
Steel braided brake lines
Premium Warn hubs
Rechargeable Mag light
8 foot cb radio whips
PSC hydraulic Ram
DIY4x Rear rock guard for drive shaft
I swapped from the 56” front springs down to 52” front springs for better stability.
I am on my 3rd soft top. They don’t last long... The windows...
DIY4x Dash and had it powder coated black.
Phantom 2 gauges
LMC truck headliner with CB radio
Rock sliders
Dual optima batteries
Fire extinguisher
Led light strips for better cab lighting
Arb Snorkel
Bushwacher fender flares
Rigid D2 and Dually lights for the ORD front bumper.
Custom 24v Warn...
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