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dabtl ,That is where my information came from. Great manual to have with lots of info and pictures. Another good one to get is the TM 9-1819AC ordnance maintenance manual.

As near as I can tell buy the information I have , all three tools were kept under and behind the pass seat secured with one strap.

Along with the two brackets on the side , it looks like a place to store something. Some smaller diameter pipe inside the holes bent into an L shape would make a nice ladder rack.

rchalmers3, I have had no charge rate balance issues with the batterys and they have been in the truck over a year and were the ones that came with the truck when I bought it. I use my 12 volt accessories often and had no battery issues. I load test them often to see if the 12 volt tap affects...

You do not have to worry about grounding to the body. If you run a power wire from the first battery positive cable , [ looking at the battery from the pass side , it's the battery on the left] you can ground any where to the body. The pos cable on that battery is 12 volts and the pos cable on...

booger, no offence intended but in a convoy you don't want to be the guy behind a deuce with rear exaust.

USAFSS, I like your way of thinking!

I was in a parade this fall behind a deuce with a exaust that exited out the back and all I can say is I will pull out of the parade before I do that again. Don't mind a little smoke but not in my face.

These are the ones I use. They are metal with diamond plate on the bottom for grip. Handles are built in. Painted them yellow so they can be seen.

The air chucks with the lever to hold them on are a great idea. Just don't walk away with the tire filling up or you might hear a KA-BOOM!

Google m-35 pioneer rack and there are detailed pictures and measurements of the tools. I did that and found all the tools locally in hdwr stores. Just had to shorten up the shovel a couple inches. I think all the tools cost me about 55.00. I painted them and was good to go. I will take pics...

Gimpy, I hope things go smooth on the motor swap. I wish I was closer, I would jump in and turn some wrenches. Too bad about the broken crank. That is an odd one. Only one I have seen was in a 283 chevy doing about 9000 rpm. Good luck on the new motor. Bob C.

I have filled all my diffs and the trans to the bottom of the fill hole and have no leaks at all so the 1 inch theory is toast. m-35tom is absolutely correct in his post. If the trans manufacturer wanted less fluid in it, they would have put the fill plug lower. It would not be the first time...

If you use the correct reducer, xylene or mineral spirits, the 24087 won't be to glossy. Great job and nice looking truck.

FMJ, When you disassemble your motor, check the torque on the rod bolts just for ha ha's before you take it apart. See if they are all the same or if there is some variance between different rods. Set up a dial indicator, on a flat surface of course, to measure the length of the rod bolts to see...

Alfa heaven is their name. Tom is a really sharp guy and great to talk to.

PM bulldog_mack. Jay is a great guy and he does great camo jobs. He might be able to guide you along.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure this out. The first time I drove my deuce at maximum said speed and heard the engine just about jumping out of the hood, I said forget this. I only run at 2200 rpm and no more than 48 to 50 miles per hour. You have to use a little common sense when...

Kyle, Back in the day when vehicles had speedo cables, we used to lube them with white litho in a tub. It is much better than the spray. Never had any bouncing problems when cold and it seemed to work out well. Thats what I would use in my own truck. Go lightly with the lube and you should be...

Why don't you just remove the small shaft between the trans and the transfer case. If the vibration is still there, everything past that point is ok. If it is gone then reinstall the small shaft with the first driveshaft to the rears out and see if it comes back. If it comes back then the...