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The starter relay is not needed on a 12v conv. Its purpose is to convert the 12v signal from the ign switch to 24v to the starter solenoid. Unplug it ,cut the purple and purple /white wires and join them together.
Odball , eaisiest way to access the 2 bolts that hold the swtch down is to drop the column down. After that remove the dimmer switch and you are there. If you drop the column don't forget to remove the cable going to the PRNDL first.
The doghead relay mod is for the starter relay under the dash. This is a must do if you stay 24v because the relays have a high failure rate with bad consequences. The relay changes the 12v signal from the ignition switch to 24v to the starter solenoid. S0 if you are converting to a 12v starter...
If I had to guess I would say it is the lock cylinder. We run into this frequently on civi cars and trucks. You can check the rod to the ignition swich by dropping down the column , but you will have to remove the ignition swictch and dimmer switch. To access the cylinder you will have to remove...
If you convert to 12v you do not need to do the doghead relayswap. Just connect the purple wire to the purple/white wire and you are good to go.The original relay is there to switch a 12v signal from your ign switch to 24v to the starter solenoid.
I know on the civy trucks of that era there is a nut below where the blower motor is . You should be able to work an extension and flex socket between the air box and the fenderwell.
You can just disconnect the cable at the transfer case and drive it around the block to see if your noise is gone. As far as servicing the case it is just basically a drain and fill.
My daily driver is a 12v conversion that I have had about 3 years and no problems. It was done before I bought it. The ones I restore I like to keep 24v. Unless I had major problems I would stay with the original system.