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Magnets or 100mph tape

Every cucv upon starting requires a blip of the throttle to get above idle speed to get the rpms of the alts high enough to start generating power. From the -10 manual Item b. 4

That is how they work, always have. I do not know why. Worked the very same way when I drove them on active duty in the 80s.

I drove an M1008 through desert storm in 91. We had hummers but the unit we got attached to took half of them and gave us the 1008s. Im 2006 TDY from Ft. Riley to Ft. Sill my unit was running training for convoy driving to other services and I pulled a fully equipped M1031 out of DRMO so I...

Thank you for the input and the pictures. I am convinced I should do this now.

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the help.

I have been researching a cooling system upgrade by paradox by design. Has anyone here used it? Would you recommend it? My M1031 only has 16 k miles and I want to make it last as long as I can. Thanks for any feedback! Dean

Today was a hardware cleaning day. Seemingly endless stream of ziploc bags of nuts and bolts to be cleaned before reassembly begins. before and afters You get the idea… lots more, no need for more pictures.

I do not know of anyone on the site that sells them. Internet search shows them on ebay and amazon.

I have seen no cracks in anything. It all looks like a newly assembled engine.

Here is a view of just the chain and gears.

Yes, that is a thin sheet metal baffle. The next time I am in the shop I will take another picture now that I have the timing chain cover off.

Today I had some time to remove the oil pan, timing chain cover and replace the rear main seal. The rear main seal was made of felt and crumbled to oily dust in my hands. The inside of the engine is immaculate!

Had some time over this weekend to clean up the shop and get started on disassembly and cleaning to reseal the engine. The inside of this engine is showing no wear and is very clean.

Good catch. There 12 in the bag. I have one on top and bottom of each bolt.

I really liked your write up. I have followed all the steps for mounting so far. I am ready to start putting all the bumper brackets on loosely. I made two bolt location changes that I think will work better for me. I drilled out the outboard rivet holes and used 1/2” bolts. Then I drilled two...

I wonder… maybe I can get a C-clamp on where the captive nut is and squeeze the sides enough to back out the bolts?

Cool. Thank you. I won’t be able to use that idea though. I had the floor pans replaced and the welder was not the best at restoration welding. He did not weld the pans back to the supports. I am going to try using 1/4” square rod. I will bend a piece long enough to reach past the captive nut...

Thank you! I had not thought of the flap idea.

Happy Sunday! I am in need of some visual assistance please. I am in the process of changing all 6 body mounts on my M1031. The left front under the radiator support was coming apart. On the passenger side I am not able to remove the bolts under the cab. I believe the nut inside the cab...