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Question I haven't seen answered... kind of related to this thread. What is a suitable amperage rating for a manual glow plug switch? I'm planning to install one as a PM in case my card goes out at an inopportune time. I know it should be a momentary switch to prevent operator error. Thanks...

Happened to me once too... :(

Hmm... so... 12V X 2A = 24W, right? So I could get one of the super-cheapo inverters and be OK. BUUUUUUUT: I think instead I'm gonna buy a much larger (~500W?) 24V DC - 120V AC inverter and hook it up to the 24V hookups on the Passenger side near the rear seat. I'll mount it on the...

Hmm... so... 12V X 2A = 24W, right? So I could get one of the super-cheapo inverters and be OK. Actually, now that I've been looking at inverters... I'm probably gonna get a bigger one so I could run minor power tools from it. Nice to have 120V AC power in the vehicle

I saw 12V and got excited about skipping all the hassle of installing a radio. :(

&^%$... back to square one :-/ aua

Great! I am tracking down a DC - DC converter that has those output specs. Thanks so much for your help :D

The CUCV has a 24V system to power the starter and glow plugs, but a 12V system that powers most everything else in the vehicle. I'd run the speakers off the 12V system, but it too might be slightly more than 12V (13 or 14?) Thanks mistaken1, this is pretty much exactly the info I was...

I just got a job with a 40-min commute (1 way). So, it's time to think about some audio for my M1009. An idea I'd been kicking around for years was to use an old set of computer speakers (Boston Acoustics BA635). The AC adapter for these states that it adapts 120V AC to 12V 2Amp DC. My...

I did the mod. It's been a month and still working great. Thanks!

That's somewhat comforting... anybody else want to comment on whether their front driveshaft has some play in it? And whether it's supposed to? :deadhorse: I would love some help changing out the balancer. I've been meaning to put new belts on too. They aren't bad... but I'd rather not...

Not really. I've gotten used to it. The "bb in a clothes dryer" sound stopped once I figured out that I was in 4-Hi and switched into 2-Hi. Not sure if I should be concerned about that... I'll probably only rarely use the 4WD so since the noise isn't there in 2-Hi I'm not gonna worry about...

Did you guys do the Doghead Starter Relay Mod? As stated in the CUCV Wiki, the Starter relay is a notorious weak point of the CUCV's, and the Doghead starter relay mod should be taken care of ASAP. It takes about 15 minutes and the relay is pretty cheap. A lot of people on this site have...

:oops: So.... turns out I've been in 4-Hi this whole time... Once I gave up on shifting it into 4-Hi (from what I thought was 2-Hi), this occurred to me... so I shifted it into *actual* 2-Hi. The tinging sound went away. Yay! I think. Since I'm probably going to hardly ever use 4WD, I...

I'm gonna run a quick errand, throw it into 4WD and see if I still have play in the front driveshaft once I stop (and it's in 4WD).

The rear driveshaft seems to be pretty firmly in place. The front driveshaft (I called it a propeller shaft as they call it in the TMs in my previous post) has a 1/8 - 1/4 inch of "rotational play" when the vehicle is in 2 Hi. I don't know if this is considered normal. The U joints are all...

The starter is firmly attached to the block. No tinging there. What I did notice is that my front propeller shaft has maybe a 1/8th - 1/4 inch of freedom. As I said before, the U-Joints were replaced, so those are solid, but the whole thing can turn back and forth that amount before it...

This might have something to do with it.... I did recently have the starter replaced. Will update shortly...

engine air filter nuts are tight. are there other "air breathers?" I will check the throttle cable again, but I have used it to rev the engine from under the hood recently and didn't notice anything feeling loose.

hardy har har...