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I have thought about selling my spare HMMH, but now that the forklift cylinder on the one I use has sprung a leak I'm not so sure. Either way, I don't know how I got along without a crane.

You can still shift, but the splitter won't work. Brakes will lose power assist, and 4WD and diff locks won't work. I know it says not to drive before the air system is at pressure or damage can/will result, but I have yet to figure out what that damage could be.

Yes, I see no reason why you couldn't do that. The other way around is a bit different since the SEE doesn't have the button on the curl lever to operate the rotation of the forklift. Also, be prepared for a lot of front heaviness, as the crane doesn't weigh as much as the backhoe.

Especially if it hasn't been used for a while, be sure to clean off the rods on all hydraulic cylinders before trying to operate the loader or backhoe. I liked buying the ones listed as non-runners as the seals were still intact, and it was usually easy to get them started. Also, it sounds like...

Yeah, you'll find photos in the long thread. It was probably about four years ago, and they where a bit spread out as I recall since it involved both the quick tach and putting a plate on the bucket. I'm overdue for a re-read but won't get to it for a while.

Now you know why I converted. And to hook up the snow blower wasn't the only reason for the quick tach.

Since you're already on this thread, like Speedwoble suggested, just go back one page.

All you need to do is go to page 1 of this thread, and as peakbagger pointed out, take notes. As I recall, there are also photos of the shifter bushing procedure. During the breaks in the lengthy reading, I would start with checking and/or replacing all the fluids, and lubing everything. Once...

It'd be very easy to beef any of them up with some extra material welded in at the appropriate spots, should you decide it's needed. My palletforks.com version is still doing fine, by the way.

Guess I shouldn't be concerned with the flow restrictions of the 20' extension hoses I made, or the extra quick disconnects, if 3/8" is enough.

Well, there's your problem. That pre-existing concrete is much harder to work with than regular existing concrete. Best, of course, is concrete that doesn't exist. That you can easily drill with almost anything.

Someone with an electric car that had four miles worth of charge left?

You can't stop us now. Mid state, just shy of the CO border.

Where's the "double like" button when I need it?? Also, it's impressive that out of 128 made, there are four HMMHs in NM that I know of.

Damn! That had to be someone really strong. I still remember fighting with mine, and that was using a tractor to lift it. Anyway, very sorry to hear about yours. The world sure isn't what it used to be.

Better yet, use something else to tow the dump trailer with. That'll speed things up quite a bit.

Looking for other stuff, today I came across that the loader is supposedly good for 3/4 yards.

The potential downside to using ball valves is that they're more susceptible to breaking off. Even the small ones I use hang down by over an inch. But I don't drive through brush, and if I did I'd put a 90 on them. Besides, I may have to hoof it for a 1/4 mile, worst case, and grab a new...

All three drain valves are leaking slightly. I've ordered replacements from EI. Generally you can just clean out the ones you have to stop the leakage. Or replace them with affordable ball valves.

I can't tell if it does or not from that photo, since the loader is blocking the view of it.