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Yes and it's been on here before. They look huge but fit. I had discussion about running them dish out too and hub modifications to get the load on the bearings right with dish out. Someone did that, but I don't recall who. My fav on a 105 is bolster or 1061 rim with a 37" HMMWV Goodrich...

Looks like longer than 12' ......like perhaps an m1083 bed.

You'll probably need quite a bit of reinforcement of the bed. But there seems to be room for a scissor lift. Plan for at least a 50* dump angle or more.

I'm about decided to use chain sweep in the bottom, 30" wide. Unfortunately the material could form a bridge inside that I must deal with. I ve thought about auger or some moving arm or steep angle funnel sides, and most seem to place more mechanism in the way, while taking space that could be...

It certainly makes a difference if you haul a load. Buy the tires if their condition is good as an "investment" that you can probably resell at profit if you don't use them. Be sure to store correctly, out of sun and relatively cool, if you don't put them on right away.

By the time you are done, the ticket price will seem small no matter which you choose. Yes, it's a great deal on the tires if cracking has not started. You will gain top end but loose the low end.....then you can play with fuel and rpm, etc.

The OP went back and changed his first post, replacing it with an update. It appears he has had some luck working things out.

You have done this or have the legal qualifications to claim "PERFECTLY legal".? You don't know what you don't know....and that is a problem.

So tell us what the status is.....did you pay for and get a truck? Your not the first to have a hard time paying the bill. They bite hard enough to make you NOT do that again.

How about this piece in the tongue? I like the strength it adds. Interesting thought about behind......maybe a camera or 2 would give visibility...would want to see behind anyway while on road. Sure juanprado. I'll be careful not to damage them with the smoke wrench. All four jacks come...

Would seem a long cable or chain, possibly attaching to the sides while loading to keep it in place, would hook to a tractor or tree. About 30' for the deuce and 20' for the 105. You wanted a reason to have a long snatch cable anyway.

Tim, I understand completely. It's end mounts must be strong. Here are a couple photos of under the 1061. Can you see the tunnel? Once the air tank is relocated and it's mounts re-purposed or removed, there is about 32" for a return chain or belt. I have a low speed hydraulic motor to...

Making a bit of progress on the extended tongue. I settled for a permanent 6' addition. Almost everything is 3/8" thick. It leaves the entire inner tunnel unobstructed. Wow, These are heavy trailers.

Would like the front and rear for a 4x4 809 series. No sale on my dump means I'll license and use it, not take on another project building.

My local car scrapper sells me these tires and wheels for only $25. You should find similar deal. Always buy in pairs or double check tires are same condition and size. If they want more than $50.....move on.

You can cut the ring off and weld....its cast steel. Mine has a stop bolt to prevent actuation at the end of the ram. I have not finished making my brake lines and wanted a way to lock it out. There is my ring being put to use on a 1061 tongue extension

The reason for going stop to stop is they can wear a lot in the middle and getting it tight in the middle can bind on the less worn area. Sound like the adjustment worked.

Beadlocks that say they are 11 x20 are the right ones for the A3 11" wide wheel....they measure 10" wide. I have quite a few new beadlocks for the A3 (not run-flats). Combat 5 ton rims are 10" and the beadlock is 9" wide. They do not interchange

It is the water vapor in the air that condenses, causing the electric path across the surface. Sure, clean the corrosion out, but put the RTV in that blocks the path or it will just keep happening.

I have taken several of the NATO plugs apart and they bring the positive way too close to the negative inside of it. I've noticed the tell-tale green powder of "leaking" voltage. It makes me want a main switch. All it takes is a bit of moisture to find a path. If they were not a new...