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I think someone even made a bed and attached with the kingpin, so removable. These things are really heavy....guess 500#. Top plate is 3/8 and bottom is 1/2. It's about 36" x 48".

State will keep the copy of BOS so the chances a real owner asserting against a buyer getting any traction seem remote. Hang out your shingle....as a vendor here, please.

Thank you VertigoPilot.....that is much clearer. I think this could be a common problem, especially when the owner never titled it and can't find the BOS .

That works too. A trailer that high on a pintle has to be prone to rolling when it's loaded to the front. Wes seems to prove the roll issue. as a fifth wheel, it would be much more stable and guys with 931s are looking for things to pull. Couple that with new duals and you could have a...

My Globe was too much for my 929, I though....., but man what a candidate for a gooseneck if you have a 931. I have some of the heavy trailer hitch plates that would work perfect. Guys with 931s should be all over these trailers.

This is the sellers problem. Seems like this thread has moved into circumventing state laws by going through a state that the op does not live in. NOT GOOD An interesting read about titles in Wash State is that there is a $529 minimum traffic fine for not transferring title within 30 days...

Our state uses the SF97 as a bill of sale. Note GSA does not collect sales tax and when you get the title put in your name, sales tax is due. My dump truck title cost plenty (four years after buying) but the alternative is the problem you now face. Look on your bill of sale....did state...

Our REMC electric company would drop out, causing CNC and computers to crash and then come back on, often out of phase. You can't imagine the damage that does. The company wanted to consolidate another company but refused to bring it to Indiana because of the utility. We lost 70 jobs because...

Whatever you can get. I know smart as$ answer but.... I need two for the trailer I made from my M35 bed. It as a set of 37 and a set of 32 so I'm looking for a set 37". I have truck rims I use on my weld trailer 1101 and bought extra. Do you need the one piece rims that fit for a normal...

You do excellent work. I'm using an m1101 but slow to complete. We are about to head to the sheet metal shop.

How will you connect the adaptor to the hub? Seems like protruding bolts will be in the way. Edit....okay I see some on eBay....aluminum and about 2" thick. The added thickness works with the wheel since it's big offset.

I think he plans on making/buying an adaptor. They are 170mm and need to attach to a hub 8 on 6.5. It would be easy enough to drill a second set of hole since it has eight, with the chamfers and avoid adaptors.

When you go from the reversed budd and bias 9.00 to a larger floatation (radial probably) and a wider track, they "wander" a bit. Stability is improved a lot. They did it on all A3's.

How about a selectable diff air locks with wedge air and 6.17 gears??? The ratio of 809'appears to be 6.44 and I see gear sets for the 6.44 ratio are available at reasonable cost....wonder about a 6.17 set of gears to match the Meritor?

Thanks Wes. Do you have either? Who does that has realistic prices? Can you expand both numbers, model, etc.. for me to locate.

Take a little air line and a few fittings, couplings, in case they are leakiing and have an easy fix. Note that even caged, the brakes may still be tight and rusted. There is a bolt adjustment that you may need to back off even with them caged. Take 1/2" drive. Would make great candidate...

Thanks Wes, I didn't get correct terms in search. There is a huge amount of info in that post. If an 817 were made to 4x4 and 16.00 on it, going to air and s on the rear would seem to be good mod for safety. Are air lock differential available for 5 ton?

Has anyone upgraded brakes to s-cam air on an 809 series truck?

All of the above. Do you have rust? That needs something to neutralize it, I use red primer. But I've found that red primer and Behr acrylic are a bit hydroscopic, thus can rust underneath. I spray those spots with a rattle can rustoleum camo....then Behr......by any means necessary, brush...

The problem is, both the red primer and Behr are hydroscopic and can let small amount of water go through and rust the underlying metal. It's not as bad, but after so much work, to see rust is a real bummer. Now most repairs I make get red primer and then a coat of the rustoleum camouflage...