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well the pic of the high lift jacks work, place the tire under your front bumper and place the foot of the jack on opposite sides of the tire, with another wheel under the tire and wheel you are working on evenly jack them up untill they have pushed the sides of the tire as far down on the rim...
says the guy who has probably never done one. It is perfectly fine and safe once the tire is seated. The hardest part of the whole thing is to get the sidewall compressed enough to get the ring back on. I had to use the outrigger on one side and the boom on the other to compress the tire...
the tires will not rub in the rear, they will rub on the front steering shaft on the drivers side under full turn but not too bad. I have to use my knuckleboom to compress the tire to get the rings back on, I could not figure any other way to do it by myself. 11.00 r 20 tubes will be fine. If...
boy you can tell the forum is slow when everybody takes the time to mess with the newb. After you get familiar with them you can make field repairs and drive most of them home. I have recovered well over a dozen trucks and have driven all of them home with either some flushing of the brakes...
Thats a good point, when I was on my road trip home I could not get my jake to work and my engine idle kept climbing for no apparent reason, turns out that the throttle lever on the pump had loosened up a little and had the throttle open a little bit all the time and as the truck would warm up...
again that is because the mack engine is by far and away more powerful then the cummins. The auto transmission behind the mack would be an even better combo but you will not improve performance behind the cummins unless you can stay in the sweet spot all the time and that is what the more gears...
yeah that would have been some useful information to have but I figured that one out the hard way! I am about done under the hood, the next phase is a E/F 15 spd 16R20's and paint. I am glad this thread is helping out others with their cummins mills.
Yep I agree, the mack engine will flat out run away from an NHC250 plus being a tractor it also has the weight advantage. You will be sorely disappointed if you put a 5 speed behind the cummins, you will not gain much if anything at all.
yeah that is possible, I was thinking about fire ringing the heads like they do on the dodge trucks to handle the pressure as well, can the cut the block for liners in frame or do I have to find a way to lug this big bastard into the shop myself? Like I said before, I don't really need any more...
well just an update, I have put a little over 1k miles on sheila and the power is awesome, mileage went up to 6mpg (from 4.5) and she shifts sooo much better. The two best things that I have done are by far the dual fuel line mod (better response off the line, idle's smoother, happier engine)...
Here is a link, should cover everything you are looking for, if this does not fix it you have a clog in either the fuel filter or the pump.
NTC 400 Mo Power
As it sits it looks small because of the gap, once I put a 16.00 20 spare with tool box and ladder it will look more complete. Looks are a secondary initiative, functionality is more important and with the deuce bed I could not put anything tall in the back without strapping it down for fear of...
my please even though I don't think I was much help:oops: always have fun with this stuff and helping others, I look forward to seeing pics of the 916 when it is done.
Well I am well on my way with the revised dump bed configuration, so far I like it much better than the deuce bed, size wise it is way more appropriate for the size of the 920 and it gives me back 24" of frame to work with. I plan on mounting a spare tire carrier and toolbox that came with the...
That truck does not have a 400 cummins it has the 250 cummins or the 8.3 cummins I don't remember and yes its an over the road transmission. There are a ton of models rto rtlo rtoo, the last two letters are more of the design, the O stands for overdrive, the L stands for low gearing which means...