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Scratch that comment about the cable adjuster...I just did a little research about the cables and I see how it adjusts now. I'll go back through it all tomorrow. I even have a PDF of GM's adjustment procedure for diesels. I'll make sure I have everything correct before it comes out of the garage.

Another progress report. Today I had to waste about 1/2 of the day running errands. I dropped my daughter off at preschool, and then took a trip over to Zanesville, OH to drop the drive shaft off to be balanced. I gave them the new u-joints to install when they balanced it. The guy doing the...

You say you had flow in one direction, but not the other between the base, collector and emitter points. You should have a specific voltage drop between the points when testing this way, did you happen to see what it was. It should be between .45 and .9 volts. Either way, as mentioned that is...

How did you test the transistors? Typically the Q3 transistor is the culprit for s condition such as yours. For the $5 or less it costs to buy one, I would replace it and see what you get. IIRC, the R15 pot on the board is for setting the voltage stabilization of the regulator.

I made some more progress on the Road Oiler today. Not as much as I would have liked though. I started the day off by removing the pan, and the factory wiring for the lock-up solenoid and replacing it with the solenoid and wiring for the Bowtie Overdrives kit. They give you a new 4th gear...

Original..."Any chance we can get this forum posted where we don't have to dig for it?" Change..."Any chance we can get the CUCV Mod forum posted where we don't have to dig for it?"

This topic should have been posted in the "Website Help" forum, not the CUCV Hotrodding and Modifications forum. I'll move it for you so Drew can find it easier. I'm also going to change the title so it makes sense. I have no idea if he can move the forum now that it's been created and...

I would agree that the vibration is bad for things...but I would think the rear drive shaft vibrating would cause damage to the transfer case long before it made it to the transmission

I would agree with the GL lift theory, but this truck left the service before GL took over the contract (I think).

This is a very interesting read. I'm in the process of swapping out my turbo 400 for a 700R4 in the M1028/1031. I am however going to move this thread into the CUCV Hot rodding and Modifications section of the forum. This is what I thought would happen when people bugged and bugged to have...

Well, I got the old stuff pulled out today. Yanked the drive shaft, transfer case, transmission and crossmember today. I removed the old flex plate and installed the new one already. Tomorrow morning I'll pull the pan on the new transmission and remove the original wiring for the lock-up...

There is one ground on each side of the radiator on the core support. REMOVE both of them and clean them and re-attach them. Also, just because the sockets look good, doesn't mean that the ground tab isn't cracked and ready to break. The ground tabs on both of my front signals were intact...

You would be surprised how hard you can pull on fine thread 5/16" bolts. When I had to pull a wheel off of a parts machine I had, I made my puller from 1/2" bar stock. I cranked on it so hard I bent it. That is why they are fine thread bolts Finer threads allow for more torque for the same...

The gunk and rust will affect the voltage generated. Good job getting that wheel off by the way. If I had to guess, I would say that wheel was probably heated a bit before the last person installed it (A BIG no no for a tapered shaft).

With a transmission that was never really intended to be placed in a 1 ton truck....I can practically guarantee there will be no tire spinning....but it would be cool :grd: It sure does pay to think ahead. But that may just have to wait. I am more interested in getting it back on the road...

Well, the time has finally come to get the cracked turbo 400 out of the "Road Oiler". I figured since I have to pull it out anyway, I might as well go ahead and do the 700R4 swap. I picked up a good '89 core from a gasser off of craigslist a little while back, and just had it rebuilt with a...

If you switched control boxes and everything worked, then there is no need to check the CV/CVT. It would have been fine. I highly doubt that it's one of the other trasistors, they don't control the output of the vr. I've been doing this kind of work for 20 years, and you would be amazed at...

And so you know, your other thread on this exact subject was not closed. You could have continued the previous thread rather than starting a new one for the exact same thing. It's reasons like this why it's so hard to find anything useful with our search function.

If the voltage is high, and you cannot adjust it with the adjustment knob on the control panel..typically the culprit is the output transistor. There is still the possibility that the transistor is bad. Just because it's new doesn't mean it was any good. It's also possible that you could have...

Head gaskets, according to the repair software for the civilian '84 full size Blazer with a 6.2 should take 13.3 labor hours.