Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I opened the bleeder valve on my fuel filter and let some air out of the filter before I started it up today, and It did not stall....Thanks for the advice you guys are great! PS Will change my avatar soon.
I got all the fluid out of the reseviors put the fluid in 2 separate jars and added dot 3. The main bigger res was very dark grayish, and cloudy the rear resevior was yellow fluid but cloudy. Both jars show a separation of the fluids. Now what??? Do I refill with Dot 3 or do I go find some Dot...
Well I had no Idea.... I think the oil change guys topped off my MC with dot 3. There is no DOT 5 Sticker. Did the military always use DOT 5... The stuff looks dark and murky. What next?
I have been mixing in filtered WVO and its been great... But I have changed a couple of filters and I didnt bleed it right... I read recently you should disconect the pink wire while cranking to get the air out.... My truck starts,,runs for 5 seconds, then acts like its out of fuel. Then I...
I put a new Power Steering pump on my truck and I filled it with Transmission fluid... Now I have a leak inside my truck from my HydraBooster...
I have always put transmission fluid in my power steering units.. Im wondering if I screwed up, and caused this leak? I know I have to find a new...
I took it apart and relized the stud was sheered off flush with the next bracket in, (altenator bracket) I took that off and the stud has a nut in the center and IO was able to remove it without drilling. So I went to the local Ace hardware and bought a 10mm stud and nut and it was an easy fix...
I just remembered something... I think the pivot bolt wasn't a bolt??? I think it was a stud out of the block with a nut attached. Is that correct? and can I back what is left of the stud out and put in a bolt??? or do I have to drill and tap new threads???
I hope I'm not in over my head.
Thanks for the advice...I havent started working on it yet but I went out and looked at it in the daylight, of course it is snapped flush with the block.
Good news is I went to the Chevy dealer and ordered the bracket and it cost $22 Bucks... I should get it tomorrow.
Thanks...
My bracket was broken also, but I put it back on thinking I could weld it later. Unfortunately the cracked piece fell off, now I need to find a new one. Any suggestions would be help full. email jpsco@insightbb.com (this was from a few weeks ago)
Well I never fixed it and was driving tonight...
I just changed my Power steering pump. I could not get the pully wheel off with my 3 armed puller tool. So I took it up to pep boys and paid a mechanic $20 bucks to pull it. His puller was a round metal piece that slide over the groves on the wheel hub.... His puller and had a bolt that as it...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!