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I have mine wired with anderson connectors under the hood. This way I can use 12 or 24 . I have the nato connector in front as well as one one the back. I use these to power my slide in winch as well as the slide in hoist I made to help load heavy stuff in my bed.
I agree with South Dave. Pull the heads replace the gasketsI. These engines were swapped for some reason. I.E. blown head gasket, glow plug on top of piston, cracked head, leaking or bad injector. If you choose not to do at least run a comprression test before installing the engine. Also...
Look at the Metal Devil blades online. I also wore my factory blade out cutting 1/4 sq. tubing. I found that if you clamp it on one edge instead of flat the blade will last longer. Also let the saw do the cutting with minamal pressure.
Hauled a few big block Suburbans with my 20 ft. trailer and M1008 pulls well onthe flats and a liittle slow on the hills. Make sure to hook up your trailer brakes.
Use mine all the time to pull my 20' car trailer. I did install some airlift bags to level my truck when loaded. I have hauled a few Suburbans. Pulls fine, little slow on long hills. I am running a 4 in. lift and 37in. tires.
Will your crate motor come with bracketts, if not how are you going to mount everything. A trip to Pull a part and a few dollars and you can have just what you need.
I have used the CUCV alternator on a 454 but had to modify the brackett change the belt and remove the fiber washer because...
I have installed the seals two ways, flush mounted with block and cap and as you mentioned at 2 & 8 I never had any trouble with either method. However I can see why the 2 & 8 method gives you a better seal. I use Permatex ultra black silicone when I install mine, just a dab on te ends.
The cover will work. The difference for the crank trigger is the damper and timing gear on crank. Gear when using crank trigger is wider which uses short snout damper.