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I'll have to look at mine when I get home, but from what I can see in the TM's that is correct, although it does look goofy. The -24 TM shows the manifold heaters and mounting breakdown. And in that picture, it appears that the wire in question does indeed go to the ground.
I'll look at mine...
Treeguy and Lucky,
This really isn't the thread for it, but you guys are mistaken on the glow plug issue. The MEP-002a only has 2 glow plugs (one located in each cylinder head). The other two that Lucky is refering to, that are wired in series, are the intake manifold heaters. They are not...
Everything is worth checking out at this point. Like LuckyDog pointed out, the line from your last filter (the feed line) should go into the side of the pump, and the line back to the tank should come out of the top.
I know it is a huge pain in the butt....but if you got that take-off IP from...
Yeah, your fuel cap is correct, and should be marked on the outside of the cap "Closed" and "Vent". The wingnut looking thing should be pointed toward the vent mark. Either way, if it was not vented, it would in no way vapor lock it as quickly as you are experiencing. Also, the air intake is of...
Joe,
Stay calm and take a step back for a few minutes and it will become clear:). Seriously, you're looking into this too closely. Start off by following the TM and not the Ambac manuals. The Ambac manuals were written for rebuild shops and professional mechanics, whereas the TM's were...
Great thoughts Rick.
I hadn't even thought of that possibility until you mentioned it. I just assumed that the old button was the correct size for that pump....but a previous owner could have tried to replace the pump and followed someones misguided advice and re-used their button, thereby...
I don't want to keep beating this to death, but the pump shops are WRONG! NONE of the model 50 pumps come with a button, so I could see where they would think you should just re-use your old button. But you even stated earlier in this very thread that you spoke to a tech from Ambac and he told...
Did you check and double check the fuel and return lines like suggested above?
Like I said, I know it's a pain in the butt, but doing a flow test isn't as bad as pilling the whole IP off. I would start there and make absolutely sure the IP is timed correctly.
Also, the fuel injector line you...
Joe,
As we get some more information from you we can start to narrow down the problems. We should be able to rule out most electrical issues since you said it died on you while you were holding it in the start position. Things I would check next are...
fuel solenoid, make absolutely sure...
Gimp,
I see CARNAC has some ground rods "cheap, cheap, cheap" and is going to be at Aberdeen...you going again this year, or is work gonna get in the way?? I wanna know before I make any deals...LOL
Joe,
Jumping out the oil pressure switch is easy. In the picture I have attached, I have the switch circled. Just unscrew the wires from the switch and put them both under the same screw. That effectively by-passes the switch. Just remember to re-attach them where they go when you are done...
When you say it dies. Does it die shortly after you let go of the start switch? Or does it seem to die while you are still holding the start switch?
Keep in mind that these sets have a low oil pressure shut-down switch. Once if seems to be running, you need to hold the switch in "start"...
Good tip Rick,
That was going to be my next suggestion. IF you insist on using the old button, flow time it first and see how far it is out. The few thousandths of an inch can make a world of difference. As Rick stated, at best you'll get smoke and no power...worst case scenerio, new head...
The calculations could very well be correct, and probably are. I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that your old pump had a much larger port closing dimension than the new pump does. That's going to be about the only way you could end up needing a larger button than they actually make. Once it...
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