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Yeah DH, TM 5-6115-585-24P figure 17 shows the auxiliary fuel hose assembly. No length listed, but the fittings are the removable screw-on type fittings as I suspected. And the hose itself is most definitely hydraulic hose with a fiber outer braid (MIL-H-8794-5). Attached is a PDF I found...

Bob, You are correct, the aux fuel on the MEP generators is just used to refill the day tank. When the level of the day tank goes down the float closes and turns on the aux pump and refills the day tank till it's about 3/4 full. The return line from the IP goes into the day tank.

Hydraulic hoses are what all of the fuel hoses are on your MEP-002a's and MEP-003a's as well. The hose just has a fiberglass over braid and removable fittings ( I'm pretty sure, mine look like the removable type fittings anyway), but it is still hydraulic hose.

I know hyd hose is for pressure and not suction, but the steel braiding inside the hose will prevent it from collapsing. The only hose I know of that is rated for suction would be a vacuum hose, but finding one safe for use with oil (diesel fuel) would be hard to do. Edit: Plus I have free...

I'm sure Delk's is very proud of it. I've had one of my spare output boxs opened up a few times and knowing how that switch is made and knowing what the manufacturer would charge you for a new one, if they even still make them. Delks might not be too far off. Remember that these generators...

if you can't get it free, I have one in the garage. PM me for details.

If I remember correctly the fittings needed for the fuel pump side are 5/16" JIC fittings. As to the hose, you'll need something that can handle the suction created and not collapse. I plan on using a 1/4" hydraulic hose for mine. The length is entirely up to you. The drum adapters are actually...

You can attach a muffler, but it's not going to make much, if any difference. The set already had a muffler on it (inside of the shutter box that surrounds the exhaust pipes). The noise you are hearing is the diesel engine noise and not so much exhaust noise. Let us know how your test works...

The ground on the newer plastic ones still grounds through the mounting bracket and the faceplate of the panel. There is a grounding shunt (a braided cable) connected to the control box mounting frame and attached to the underside of your control panel that is probably the culprit in these...

From what you are describing it sounds like the "ball" inside of the cable is gone. If you take that vernier cable apart what you'll find is this. The outer housing that is attached to the bracket under your control panel has a very wide, rounded internal thread machined in it. The shaft that...

I've never met him yet, but I have e-mailed him and had dealings with him...and Carl is one of the good ones. Congrats on the running gennys!!

OK, I'm not understanding the problem or question now. You replaced your "replacement" VR with another one and the smoking stopped. This tells me that the "replacement" VR was the problem causing the smoking. You are now getting 26 to 28 volts at the batteries when the set is running? If...

I only have 4 words for you "little buddy"...."A three hour tour"

You don't need to worry about holding the start switch...if you are keeping the throttle set at running speed, once the engine fires and immediatly goes to 1800 RPM's the starter lock-out switch will disengage the starter while you're holding the switch to build up oil pressure. But if you...

Congrats on the recovery, and finding the problem with your VR. However, you are pretty new to the board and may have missed posts about it....DO NOT idle the engine on your generator!!!!!! If you allow the engine to idle you will be replacing that VR sooner or later, and/or the bridge...

I don't really see where that's a bad thing PB...I've seen him in person. Looking like Elvis would be an improvement...LOL Sorry Eric, you're still my favorite mod.:mrgreen:

Just an observation about the image viewer. I just was looking at a classified ad and it seems that the old image viewer is still in the classified section. Any way to pull it from that version of the software and migrate it into this newer version and/or roll back this one? I'm not familiar...

you're not going to hear much difference in the noise output without that added muffler. Most of the noise you are hearing is engine noise and the fans like Carl mentioned, and not exhaust noise. There is already a muffler on the set. It's inside the shutter box behind the louvers. I don't...

I almost forgot...the exhaust issue. Are you missing any sheet metal on the set?? The exhaust should exit straight out over the batteries with a 45 degree pipe bend on the exhaust pipe. The blower should circulate all the air inside the sheet metal parts and blow it out through the "shutter"...

that part you are calling the resistor is actually a capacitor. And yes, it should be connected the VR red wire and the mounting screw. It sounds like the hook-up is correct and the capacitor should have nothing to do with the stator getting voltage from the batteries. Even if it were shorted...