Search results

If it were me, I would not hook it up to the house panel until I'd proved it was making 120/240 volts and holding near 60Hz. I'd start with resistive loads like lights, heater, oven, etc., before moving on to something with a motor. Verify the readings with a good multi-meter or a kill-a-watt...

FZ36226 resembles a serial number. Does it match the serial number on the data plate above the fuel filler cap?

Agreed, here's a list of things I've tried unsuccessfully: 1) 1/8"-27 NPT 2) 1/8"-27 NPS 3) 1/8"-28 BSP 4) M10x1.0 5) -3AN O-ring boss (3/8-24 thread) Of all those, 1/8"-27 NPT was the closest fit, but would only engage about 2 threads. I eventually got fed up with it and just cranked on it...

Do you have the generator on the ground, floor, or some other firm surface? Or is it on a trailer or some sort of dolly? I had a 802 bounce like crazy on a dolly I made of 2x6's with a caster at each corner, but it ran pretty smooth once I put it on the ground. They also seem to do well on a...

Thanks guys!

My nephew and I built a trailer to haul my 802 and/or 803 generators. We drilled 3 sets of 4 holes in the trailer's frame rails to match up with the skid base such that we can haul either a single generator inline or a pair of generators sideways. Now, I'd like to use it to retrieve an 002...

Agreed, that is the case when using a bung adapter, but I thought I'd read the the OP was connecting the hose direct to the draw tube. So in my mind, all bets were off. This is turning out to be a tough puzzle to solve. I'll be very interested to see what the root cause is once once this is...

Another random thought from way out in left field... when you were running the aux pump with the full length hose and draw tube, is there any chance the draw tube was vertical and suction sealing itself tight against the bottom of the barrel/bucket/container?

Is the draw tube clean and clear? Is the line from the aux pump to the tank clear? Could there be a stuck check valve? Are you able to bench test the old/new pump using short hoses?

My guess would be a hose going to/from an aftermarket coolant heater, such as a HOTSTART, etc.

A picture of the RV's panel or it's factory power cord & plug (if it has one) would help immensely. Without more info, we can't be sure we're giving appropriate suggestions.

I had a hard time getting the lamp socket to stay in the gauge hole and still hold on to the bulb. I could tweak the 4 tabs in the socket to grab one or the other but not both.

The combination of 8 and ) becomes 8) when there is no space or other character inbetween them. If you put a space between them, it works ok. 8 )

Does it have a data plate? The model number, TM or NSN would make it easier to search.

Added more details about the winterization kit in post #14. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?175014-MEP802A-amp-MEP803A-winterization-kits&p=2092973&viewfull=1#post2092973

Here's an example of a MOV rated for 130VAC: BOURNS MOV-20D201K VARISTOR, 200V, 130VAC, 170VDC, 20MM DISC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011O9H07Q

Have you called the LP suppliers in your area? Around here most delivery trucks have at least 100' of hose on the reel. Some can reach 150'.

If plain old kerosene is too expensive, you might consider jet fuel, which is essentially kerosene with a few additives. Keep in mind, kerosene and jet fuel don't have quite as much energy as diesel, but they're good to much lower temperatures. Jet A is good to -40F. Jet A1 (which is close to...

Which part of North Dakota?

Shelf life Both kits were missing the same 3 incidentals: - Sealing, Compound (Permabond LM012) - Sealant, Silicone, High Temperature (Loctite 59630 or RTV106) - Grease, Low Temperature (AeroShell 33MS or 64) Apparently, those 3 items had exceeded their shelf life and were stripped from...