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Hairline cracks on the heads are normal to an extent, especially if the heads are older and are not from the last castings in the late 1980' . The TM specifically mentions that the cracks within specs do not make a head unserviceable.
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I did LDS swap mine and agree with most that was said.
"I would pull the heads off the good takeout LDS...." like you said was exactly how my totally unplanned rebuild of a good running takeout engine started.
I just wanted to do the head gaskets. Not because they were blown, but they were...
Yes, the heads do have freeze plugs. The TM will tell you more, and so will this post https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-this-for-a-freeze-plug.11295/post-107206
The short-and-not-so-sweet is that you need to pull the head(s) to do the end plugs. Hopefully it is just a hose as mentioned...
LOL on the cr2032! I went through that the other day. You would THINK that they are easy to get - but, nope....wasted two hours before getting the only thing I could find, a pack of 5. Great. I have 4 spares.
I am no electric chicken but I think the reason for hooking to a chassis ground and...
What @Mullaney said! When I rebuilt my LDS I went through a few sheets of FelPro gasket material and I was cutting my own gaskets for the first time. I actually like doing it and have been cutting my own off and on ever since. There are videos (of course) to watch on YouTube (of course) with a...
IIRC, I riveted the wiper track to the door similar to the original ones, but the regular pop rivet heads protruded too far and caught the edge of the window. A grinder t the rivets solved that.
Yes, the White 135 and 155 tractors, respectively, correspond to the LDT and LDS engines, with modifications. A lot of parts are interchangeable, though, especially head studs, gaskets etc.
I found pics of a White 2-135 engine on the web in a tractor forum. The exhaust manifold is flipped...
Last weekend I went to the local truck and tractor pull event (a bit of harmless fun and watching teenage kids that "tuned" their diesel pickups, mostly by turning up the fuel, throw driveshafts).
Walking along some vehicles, this caught my eye....
Hmmm....hydraulic head with 6 lines...
I like the no-nonsense radiator...and the green colour. That engine will not be overstressed....not be STRESSED....with that power output and should run reliably for an eternity. Eventually, LDT/LDS parts will become difficult to find/price prohibitive, so I thionk you are ahead of the curve here.
@WhoMe08721 kudos for not only going through the brake system with a fine tooth comb and making it better than new, but also for trying to understand how everything works. Never mind a 25,000 lbs truck being slow off the line - the 25,000 lbs need to reliably stop in order to be safe in today's...
Common wisdom is close to 1/4" of travel. If the bottom clip fell off, it may still move, but less, maybe 1/8 of an inch. Or not move at all. It can get stuck in the bore; people have used a wooden dowel and a hammer and gently tapped it loose. After that, you may want to check that the bottom...
To check the plunger travel you need a wrench to take the hex plug out that sits in the top center of the hydraulic head, something to stick into the opening and rest on top of the plunger (I usually use a pencil; it's wood, doesn't mark anything). Then bump starter until pencil is at top dead...
I'll get right on that! I am still medicating for the poison ivy rashes I got after crawling around in that greenery! As always....my fault. It started as "While I am out here, I 'll quickly do THAT"......and so it goes.
You may have seen this thread here: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/cant-get-the-engine-to-idle.208345/page-3#post-2448673
Some useful hints regarding idle issues as well!