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I think it fell off. That would take great effort to get up there and hold the nuts while untightening the bolts. As I recall they came OEM with 5/16" fine thread bolts with a star washer. Not to start controversy but a friend of mine lost a license plate off the front of his truck and assumed...
I fixed a few like that. 1 truck needed a new transmission case. Another one has 2 holes thru the upper bell and the owners were willing to take the risk. It all worked out. They ran the trucks several years before upgrading. The plow tuck split the bell housing and lower cover. Happy Holidays.
I thought about it and have decided to send the CUCV spreader truck out to a garage to have it fixed. I don't want to involve myself in the hacking that has taken place thus far. Not sure I would be satisfied with the results and adding all the wires back into the box. Not the worse one I ever...
I was called over to the vehicle maintenance department because an M1028 salt spreader truck had no lights and was not charging. The horror I see is unreal. Cut wires and all sorts of spades jacked into outlets and running in all directions. I went to do my inline fuse repair and found wires...
I bought an M1028 in Augusta Georgia that had a bad rattle in the engine. I hooked a tow bar on the back and towed another M1028 behind me. I drove back to towards my home in PA and this engine really rattled but ran good. I got home and was wondering what the rattle was. Come to find the crank...
I have never changed one. I think it is pointless to worry about things that may never happen. I have driven CUCV's a half a million miles and never had the issues that some people encounter. When I did deeper into the issues on the CUCV vehicles that are brought to me I discover the problems...
The weights on the flex plate face forward. Are you sure that all 6 bolts fastening the flex plate to the torque converter are tight. Are you sure they are M10 if the need to be M10 and or 3/8" if they need to be 3/8" bolts. I have seen them both ways and have determined that the ones I seen...
Never. Never replace head gaskets without sending the head or heads to a reputable automotive machine shop. Never. I have brand new GM heads in wooden crates. I use them for book ends in my barn. Doubt me.
Now the fuel tank bracket and a dash that I removed and has the caged nuts if that is what you ate looking for. I am slow to look but I have all the parts for a CUCV.
I went looking because I felt like I should play nice. I have been very busy and I made great progress today on other projects. Remain calm. The gate cable genuine GM used one of my prize parts I have a set of NOS GM battery apron reinforcements
wrong gate parts box
The fuel tank bracket...
Is that the part you need that goes on the instrument panel structure. That is heavily spot welded into place but can be drilled out of a dash structure if you need one bad enough. Or do you need the outer bracket that bolts to that structure?
I guess I better think about getting the steering and brakes back to operational and if I go that far I may as well throw in the harness and get it started and drive it over under its own power. That seems to be a reasonable goal to work towards. Then the long winters nap.
I can think of no reason why I could not put the wheels and tires back on my M1009 project. It is basically in my way at this point, and I am afraid to work in my shop. I have a few small tractors that need to be maintained before putting them away for the winter. Ho I wish I had an open bay...
Quite the common problem that stems from the high compression engine stopping in one of four spots when turned off. These four spots show excess wear on the few teeth of the ring gear where the starter hits it. Usually there are five or six teeth that show wear, chipping, grinding, etc., marks...