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Add note... There is not not a much info on testing the Smart / Dumb controller or TSU's. What I think you will find are procedures for older GPC (glow plug controller) and simple transistor / timer logic controller. Typically LAU, Prestolite, and SSI. The companies that starts with "N" or a...
800 ma is HUGE.. Might try and isolate it at the 12 volts feed to the TCM / transmission connection (battery center tap) OR take a look on the 24 Volt side of things. Right there in the battery box to figure which direction to head. The smart / dumb box does have a "keep alive" but very small...
AT this point everything points to a bad controller IMO. Check the resistance of each individual glow plug. VERY low resistance in the tight range of 2 to 5 ohms more or less an ohm or two. Likely all are shot (open) but one could have gotten lucky. If open one gets the fun to change /...
Somebody say Camotek ??? My ears were starting to burn LOL. Yep, the paint jobs can be a bit sloppy. The over spray is a light killer on the plastic lens. All of them. Having new ones is a BIG difference. Doesn't matter incandescent or LED. What you did to clear (pun) up the problem is...
That bushing could tighten it up a bit. Peddle rods may need a little tweaking for convenient travel. Also switch has adjustment to engagement at WOT or just before. On my rig, after new bushing, some tweaking and a new cable, dialed it in. Peddle travel to response is a lot of foot work...
GOOD POINTS ⚡ (y)🤔
YEP, You got that right IMO. There's more to it than just jump in and do it. Not so sure of any cost savings if proper maintenance, coupled with understanding of system is worth while $$$. Looks good on paper... till one pops the hood and really digs in. Most HMMWV wiring...
Not to say all the switches that are shinny are bad... But if one has seen some of the plating of imported parts, mainly electrical and gauges, One gets a feel for the questionable products. I too have been there 22 years ago with a speedometer. Got the call that it came in and picked it right...
Welcome the call. If your going to go 12 volts, Go all the way. Could get good money for the 200 Amper to pay forward on the hardware. Have money left over?? Just a thought.
How many volts were used on Frankenstein? CAMO
Trying to follow the data and test points. The ONLY time voltage should appear at the solenoid is during the start position with the solenoid being the load.
It was suggested to use a "test remote start button" at the starter to eliminate the musical chairs with switches. Might be where I got...
Sound like your on your way to 12 Volts. $$$ Some of the OEM guys are going to blow a fuse at a project like this... and a small wad of money. LOL
12 volt controller...No problem. Don't go cutting start & glow circuits out just yet.
Guys got do their thing, CAMO
The switch is very important. 20 Amp rating on the RUN and 20 Amp on the start WITH 70 Amp inductive. Be very careful of knock-off sales. One way to tell is the plating. If it is shinny like polished brass...likely bad news. 75 clams for the real deal. See spec sheet.
Keyed option wired...
Did you state keyed or standard military switch? Either way a fouled switch could hang in the start position and keep the solenoid engaged. On start, 24 volts goes straight thru box to starter solenoid coil. Any box if water damaged can have shorts and failure point. Not seeing it is hard...
Rivnuts great in many application. Try these clip nuts. No special tool, just up size the hole a little. slips / locks right in. Get the heavy duty ones and check your edge distance to reach the hole.
In this application... perrrfect. The cats meow, CAMO
Did you check for proper fan operation? If the fan is locked up... system wonky, it would be hard to get it to heat up. Not seeing it IMO and a guess... fan is hung up due to all things fan operation. Never read was working correctly. (may have missed it) Or has been messed with...
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