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I've found that sometimes the relay will activate, and 12V will appear at bottom w volt meter, but due to pitted contacts in the relay, few amps are being transmitted. May not be that common, but with multiple trucks over many years, this has happened more than a few times. Frustratingly for...

Do you have 12V at that junction block? If you have good glow plugs and power to top (red wires) of relay , you can jump from red wires at top of glow relay to the orange wires at bottom of relay and bypass it altogether. Or jump from junction block directly to orange wires on glow relay...

I'd never advise taking switch apart or un doing wires. If you do, and get it back together, your a more patient man than me. As stated above, switch can be freed up just by loosening plate, not removing. As also previously stated, good to check tightness of all the screws attaching wires...

If you are storing it outside, be aware rodents can can damage wiring and wasps like to build nests in them. Not a problem if running all the time, but most of us don't them use that way. While not as much a problem w a non-ASK 002 as w ASK equipped units and the 802s, it is something to...

If glow plugs had been working at all, the starting fluid would have pre detonated, causing damage to rings and has even been known to blow out the pressed in insert the injector is screwed into. Edit: I see now post #22 is attached to a zombie thread. Advise poster Phillip to start their...

I just checked a CUCV, and the sensor is indeed on drivers side head, in the back, behind the #7 cyl of intake manifold. You can confirm this by checking continuity from fast idle circuit to sensor. The sensor I remembered on passenger side is on some civy 6.2s, on CUCVs there is a plate...

Count yourself lucky it did not fire w "scary amount of starting fluid" , if it had, the engine would likely be ruined.

Sensor is at back of head facing firewall, kind of hard to get at. If I recall, the one for fast idle circuit is on passenger side, the one on other head is for glow control.

That is fast idle solenoid, it is in circuit with IP timing advance and its purpose is to have faster, lower emissions warm up of cold engine. The part is getting hard to come by, especially at reasonable cost. If you can't find used or rig up a return spring, they cost about $150, last...

I think the Raamat would stick to the metal better than to the lizzard skin, plus paint more likely to stick to Lizzard skin than to the Raamat. That was my thinking anyway, have only done it in that order.

While I was dealing w this, I got out my spare control box I bought cheep back when everyone was parting these out. I noticed the VR board is newer, dated 1996. The rest of box shows a lot of age and wear, with almost 4K hours on meter. I see this board has a bunch of jump wires on it that...

Well, I'm an idiot, but that is not news to me. I was wondering why they would have put CR-1 diode for crank on VR board, but there it is, a diode also marked CR-1 and the only one visible. Probably I missed something in TM that would have told me correct location. I see the diodes mounted...

A-1 hook ups are as you listed except for #6 which is P58A, not P58B. I'll add that I never messed w the wiring in this, and I used it a few times to run house before I got my 802, so I know it worked then. No P58B nearby that I could see either. In taking the A1 terminal out to check if it...

Tried to start with another board today, still no crank. I tested the CR-1 diode before installing it and it tested good. I also seem to have made a mistake in post #5 . I stated I had 24V at A1-5 w S-1 in crank and zero at A1-6. I mixed that up, I have 24V at A1-6, and zero volts to A1-5...

Generator starts and runs with this circuit bypassed. Low oil sensor runs fuel shut off on these, I believe, and I did check. Also checked starter cut out circuit and overheat circuit before I posted this thread. Am only aware of the DC breaker on panel and the main current breaker. There is...

In your second picture, the round quarter sized depression has a hole around the 11 o clock position. That looks like a new filter base, so it may be the improved one that was issued at some point. If it is, that hole in casting does not go all the way though like it does on original bases...

I'll swap out the board w a spare and check that while I order the CR-1 diode. My lack of knowledge of basic circuitry adds to my confusion, 'cause like I stated, that diode is not isolated on board, made me wonder if any of the other components it is connected to could be a problem, since the...

CR-1 tests good w static diode test on circuit board w Fluke. I might not have been clear, CR-1 tests around 13V to actual diode on circuit board when S-1 is in crank position (when A1-5 has 24 V) That is probably not a test in TM, just checking things out, trying to learn. The numbers I...

I used Raamat, which is a little less expensive than Dynamat, similar product. Then I spray on Lizzard skin over it with an undercoating gun where it is appropriate. Porous mats and headliner type material is good for up high, but don't use on or near floor as will hold water and promote rust.

The hand primer would be handy, that's for sure.