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It is likely either the relay, or the way you hooked it up. Red is hot, 24V, purple goes to starter, black to ground, purple & white goes to ignition switch. Purple should only show 24V when 12V current is sent on purple & white wire, that should only happen when ignition switch is turend to...

If under dash light works, it confirms there is current coming out of service light dimmer switch. When you say bulb is "not blown", I'm assuming you tested it and it is OK. If this is the case and it is not coming on, then it could be a problem with dimmer part of headlight switch. You will...

The NP 203 transfer case is from an older truck. I would not assume the splines are the same, also, they are full time 4WD, no ability to put front drive shaft in neutral. You are much better off with the 208. If it was a choice between a 205 and a 208, I'd go with the 205, but is completely...

The under dash light is located under dash between the ash tray and glove box, if you want to check the bulb. Are you getting 24V to the positive feed on meter? If so, the meter is probably bad. The dash lights could easily be a separate issue.

The volt meter is on a 24V circuit and there is one 24V fused circuit in the fuse box. The instrument cluster is 12V, with the exception of the Gen 2 exciter circuit. here are a few tings to check: It could be just a fuse, agree checking and cleaning them is a good place to start...

If you want to evaluate the overall mechanical condition of the engine, a simple compression test will tell you a lot. But I agree with others here that problem sounds fuel related, and likely the IP.

A civilian K-5 will usually have a 60A alt. Output of both alternators needs to be the same if your truck is 24V.

If you are fairly mechanical, it is not hard to "rebuild" them either. Usually I don't replace the bearings unless they need it, just the diodes, voltage regulator, and sometimes the rectifier. I think forum member Tow4 (in post #8 on this thread) may still sell kits. If not search parts for...

At 13.9, is either under charging, or battery is run down and pulling current. If battery is low, voltage should creep up in a couple of minutes. Like curtisje said, diode is an internal component of alternator, if you are not into going that far into it, just get it rebuilt (or buy a...

Probably a diode going bad. Test w volt meter, should be above 14V when charging, even at idle.

Make sure fuel return line is working. If you used proper 3/8ID fuel line, the 4 ft of rubber should not be a problem. I'd check to see that none of the lines are pinched. Did you make sure pick up tube did not have any rust or debris in it when tank was out? One test you can try is to...

A bad temp sensor can cause the system to remain on past the point it is needed. If the wait light is working, I think you would see it light up for brief periods even after truck is warm. That could wear on system, but not sure it would cause the failure you have described. If wait light...

You're right, it has been about 15 years since I had to deal w all the broken tips. I used a grease covered paint brush or something when removing though the injector hole. This will work if tip is still in pre ignition chamber anyway. My first few 6.2s used the 6-7 volt "fast glow " plugs...

I have removed plugs in similar fashion, spray lube then hold spade w needle nose vice grips and twist w thread while pulling out, it takes a while, but usually works. I have since bought an extractor tool, which I don't have to use much any more. This is mainly due to fact I change whole set...

At this point I'd probably test pump output, and system flow in general, it would not be the first time a new part was defective. One other, probably unlikely scenario, is that one of the protective plugs on a new component was not removed. Sounds bizarre, but I actually encountered this in...

Is it possible the belt that runs PS pump is really loose and not driving it? I assume you are sure pump is filled to correct level. Hoses hooked up correctly and not pinched?

The resistor is only needed when jump starting w slave cable when the batteries in jumped vehicle are almost completely dead. Jumping works fine without the resistor otherwise. I send crew out in these trucks daily, carry a slave cable in my personal truck at all times. The reason people...

You can securely tape the U joint end and wire up drive shaft if you have no way to plug output shaft hole in transfer case. Just make sure transfer case is in neutral and front hubs are disengaged. Did this a few times with older trucks that had U joints at both ends off rear drive shaft...

I'll add that if the glow plugs are swollen, they have already failed and need to be replaced anyway.

Good luck on the repair and let us know what you find, the solder joint info is interesting. I never had any trouble with mine, and these are alleged to be pretty durable units.