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I've cleaned dissasembled and cleaned 6.2 injectors and have rebuilt injectors out of Mercedes (OM-617 engine w turbo), and can confirm they are the same except for above noted thread & nozzle differences. The nozzles on the Mercedes injectors showed visible pitting, both cars had over 200K...

That manual in post 12 is the correct civilian manual for the M-1031 gen head.

A compression tester to test the compression, only reliable way I know of. If you buy or rent one, make sure you get one rated for diesel engines, and you will need the adapter that goes into the glow plug threads. A lot of the universal diesel rated sets include the adapter. There is also a...

Forum member "antennaclimber" sells glow plug cards. They are newly made with some improvements, I've got them in most of my CUCVs and the work great.

Maybe stolen, but just as likely someone bought it for drive train, never bothered to get a title, then someone made a truck out of residue and some old parts, and a VIN plate that matched a title they had kicking around. Not sure how that gets sorted out. I did a cab swap on a '66 K-20 I...

The official VIN is on dash, viewed though windshield. They did not have title when owned by the govt, hence the Sh-97 form, form to obtain a title for a former govt vehicle. It is usually issued to original buyer from govt.. If one buys a veheicle from govt, one applys for title at your...

The VIN should also be on the cab on data plate that is just below driver's side door striker.

The gear reduction starters weigh significantly less, so they might be more advisable to hang on a helicoil repair. They may torque a little less too, as they spin a little slower. The argument about which is better has been done here before several times, I say, use whatever type you have or...

I had a civilian chevy with a 6.2 I had to helicoil years ago. I never added any shims, and did not have any further problems with starter bolts, drove the truck a long time after repair, truck retired due to rust, still have the engine. I used a gear reduction starter, since they put less...

Old thread aside, I'm pretty sure the diesel is still pretty greasy, still hard to get out of cloths, maybe you just got better at not spilling it on yourself w age & experience. 2 cycle oil may be a fine additive for older diesels, but not advisable for anything w heat regen cycle or...

If the well pump is 35 years old, consider replacing at some point before it fails on you. That is a good run for one of these. Chances are new pump will not draw as much when starting. Is this an immersible pump or shallow well type? I had my immersible(80 ft down) go out a couple years...

That duelly set up looks like the older style GM corporate 14 bolt, narrower set up. Actually they work quite well, have used on a 1008 dump body conversion, and have seen pictures of M1010 and 1031s with them on this forum. The good thing about them is fender flairs are not really needed, but...

Glad you had a good trip, That motor is lunchboxed all right. The upper end was probably oil starved and metal contaminated to some degree too, so likely not worth installing a crank kit (turned crank w matching bearings). That oil pickup, it does not look stock to me either

That dent is not bad at all, easy fix with some body tools and/or expansion attachment on a porta power. I'd get what cash you can from the insurance company and fix it yourself or drive as is. Whatever you do, don't let them total your truck over that.

I get it now, but I did not get it from your original post, perhaps I'm not that clever, but seen some kinda crazy posts over the years. I have seen a motor that was junked because the block was cracked at starter mounting, but only after some one had made a poorly executed try at a couple of...

You got my curiosity going, how did using the wrong starter junk the whole motor? Not saying it did not happen, just wondering how.

Good luck & take 'er easy on the tow. I never liked flat towing much, especially when towed vehicle is heavier, but no doubt you know what you are doing. I'd use my equipment trailer w electric brakes, but admit to being old & cautious.

I'll give it a try, it has been a few years: Drain radiator, disconnect hoses. Disconnect oil and transmission cooler lines from radiator and tape off to keep dirt out, same as you would for regular radiator removal. Unbolt two front body to frame bolts under radiator support. These are...

Removing front clip is not that much work once you have done it, and does not require much realignment. I was kind of a junk yarder in my early days, swapped a lot of chevy car and truck parts around, put together good trucks out of two or three junkers, parted out trucks heading to chusher...

If you want the learning experience, swapping motors is not too hard, if you are mechanically inclined and have decent tools. First time just go slow, and it will take you a lot longer than if experienced. If not into learning aspect, and you don't have a lot of time, getting someone to do it...