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Hope this works out for you. Am familiar with frame off restorations, frame apart not as common.

How are you going to fasten frame together again? Grade 8 bolts should be strong enough, but not sure if they will hold frame rigid. One of mine had its rivets loosen up, probably due to heavy load over very uneven terrain. The frame now has some flex, which some of the rock crawlers like...

Looks like a nice M-38, might be worth $8,500. If it has no title, would want to be sure it is seller's to sell. Whether or not you need title to register on older stuff varies by state. I'd pay close attention to the body, its channel frames, etc. Might even be a reproduction body. but...

One reason to run regular 15-40 in these is they are older generation diesels and the best way to keep their innards clean is to change oil. The synthetics last a lot longer, but they still load up with combustion contaminants, so to keep motor clean, oil changes have to be more frequent than...

Agree, I'd check for air leak first. Especially if problem mainly occurs on first start of day. It will often not show up as visible leak. If you bleed top of filter housing when problem is occurring, and you get air bubbles, you know to look further for leak. Shut off solenoid is also easy...

DB-2 4544 works in CUCVs at least to original spec, proven replacement for original part number, if you decide to stay stock.

As long as you have TC held back, its OK, we know it slides easily on tranny input. Seems like a unconventional diagnostic step though, as cracked flex plate or loose bolts easily seen by visual inspection.

There are two suspect relays (solenoids), one under the dash, one on the starter. It might be good to confirm the one on starter is actually for 24V. It is not unheard of for a 12V solenoid to be on a 24V starter. It is a 24V starter, hopefully. The relay under dash has to be a 12V relay...

You held back spining torque converter from flex plate while engine was running? Hard for me to picture this, please stay safe.

Still think it is likely the relay is wiring is off, or wrong relay ( ie chassis grounded, or ground activated, both of which can probably be made to work if you switch some wires around). However, if you refer to diagram E-1 in appendix of TM 9-2320-289-34, it does show some splices in wire...

Don't overlook the possibility the relay is wired wrong or something. Also check you have the right relay, many are same externally but have different internal specs, such as grounded by chassis or externally grounded.

The red wire to the "diamond" connector (on firewall above glow plug relay) is a 12 V feed if truck is wired stock and correctly, so it is a clue. The 12 V current it would carry during start should only be from ignition to relay under dash, not starter load. So many of these trucks have...

Could be the solenoid on the starter is faulty, it happened to me once with a freshly rebuilt gear reduction starter.

Are you referring to injector lines? It is OK to re use them if installing new IP or injectors, I have always done so with no problems. If you damaged them by over torquing as suggested in post 55, it might be another story. I also recommend disassemble & inspect line ends & seats for any...

I think it's OK to post link to auction you have "won" or one already over. Just not OK to link to ones that are active.

I would not run it a lot like that, it is possible for TC to slide back and engauge flex plate anyway, not sure what would happen, probably not good though.

Leaking injection pump line(s) would cause a pretty good vibration if leaking enough that the cylinder won't fire. Not sure what you mean by disconnecting torque converter. Did you unbolt it from flex plate?

Forum member Tow4 sells kits I think, might be the easiest way to get the correct parts.

If you want to replace panels, as suggested above, a good alternative to welding is using rivets or screws and a body adhesive such as 3M 08115. This allows you to coat inner parts of the repair with rust inhibitor of your choice and then not burn coating off with welding heat. After cutting...

Alternators "going bad" is small problem, much more easily solved than wire harness mysteries. The parts in the alternator that most commonly cause failure are inexpensive and relatively easy to replace. But having rebuilt by shop is a good option if you don't want to bother. Not a bad item...