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Back when I was buying a lot of CUCVs on GL, about half of them still had their bumper markings,about half had been spray painted over. Two of the three I still have in camo have their original markings intact. One is MA NG and the other one is MD NG, I think.

As noted, the two cylinder diesels tend to shake due to piston configuration. I thought my 802 was shaking too much (compared to a 002)when I had it running on a truck bed. When I put it on a piece of old rubber truck bed liner (similar material as mud flaps) on a concrete slab, most of the...

It is just a tube looping though the radiator. If they are routed so they don't chafe, it should not make much difference.

Pretty straightforward if you have decent tools and follow the directions. Make sure you block the side you are working on well, with wood blocks or very good commercial jack stands.

Says 002a on the tag. The one with 2 heads is an 003a, the 002's 'big brother', that will make 10-12KW, but you can not convert the 002 to an 003. Have seen an auction site seller listing 002s as 802s before. Not sure what is up with that, and the misinformation about the 003. Either they...

Just guessing at this point. Maybe get the numbers off the IP and check what motor it is speced for, is it for a 6.2? If I recall, someone posted an application chart for the DB2 IP, (there were dozens of variations )or call a good rebuilder. Otherwise, timing chain or something?

The cold advance specs for that IP may be different. Just unhook the cold start advance from the IP, same circuit as the solenoid. Like the solenoid, the truck will run fine without the advance circuit connected. If this does not solve your problem, perhaps you need to adjust timing of the...

If you can't adjust it, just remove the solenoid. The truck will run fine without it, you just loose the cold start fast idle at warm up. Might look for problem with throttle return spring.

There is supposed to be a brace consisting of a bent steel rod with holes in the ends, that goes from the inner door skin to the lower mirror bolt hole. Perhaps yours has come loose or is missing.

Check flasher unit in fuse box.

I agree, check the lift pump and filter base first. But it could be the IP.

The transfer case was probably cracked when the driveshaft got bent. Seen this before.

I have, but only once. Fortunately the one in a core I had kicking around was still good.

You should be able to hear a click, sounds like shut off solenoid may be the problem. They are not too hard to replace, just be sure not to let any dirt get into IP.

Seems in the original post, maybe some contamination or particles got in the injector lines. Injector cleaner will not fix this. If that is the problem, it may work itself though if you are lucky, but it is easy to mess up injectors with contamination. A small bit of sand, large bit of dust...

Sounds like the timing may have gone off somehow. Timing chain skip, stripped woodruff key? Has never happened to me, but it is something to check before you get another IP.

The body tubs should be pretty swappable. The 2a and 3a are very similar, major difference I recall being the windshield frame. The M-38s and MBs don't have tailgates.

I had one done last year by americandieselservice.com. It cost about $450. The guy I talked to knew the different specs and applications of the DB2 IP. Some places just rebuild them all to a common spec.

If it is coming from the fuel filter base, you may have the classic leaky pressure sensor. If it is front of engine, check the small weep hole in the lift pump. If it is leaking there you need new pump, also check oil, as it can mix fuel in with motor oil when lift pump diaphragm goes.

Also might want to check lift pump output.