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I’ve been cutting holes to allow water to drain through. Not always in the exact spot of the tubs drain hole, but in a corner where the water will find its way out into one of those holes. That way it’s not a direct route for sound? Who knows if that helps

Interesting idea with the boat foam flooring. It’s about half the price of the automotive carpet I was considering. carpet is a fairly good sound absorber. Anyone want to wager a guess as to how the boat foam would perform? I’m just laying it on the tunnel

I have also seen rolls of softer more flexible rubber at Lowe’s or Home Depot. 30-36” wide. It’s in the carpet runner section and the same dimension, like the stuff you’d install on stairs or in a hallway. could be a good option for floor mats. I haven’t used it.

I’ve been trying to soundproof mine. Most of the noise comes from the engine, obviously. I built a second doghouse, similar to the console in the Hummers. I’m not done but I did test it. I put pieces of scrap foam cushions inside. That has seemingly been the most effective thing I’ve done...

I bought a full set from Midwest Military Equipment. But they are made in China and my one tail light failed in about a year.

I think I’ll just call and order from Mac Motors. They are good and seem to have the best price. I’ll just ask for true OEM and maybe I’ll swap my black covers for the oems. Or paint them as needed

Yea I could spray can them, but f there is a factor black finish out there I’d just do that. So how do I know which lights are oem and which might be Chinese junk?

I have a short in one of the wires in my tail light. I got them from Midwest Military and figured it was Chinese. Didn’t want to make that mistake again. also don’t want LED. All those little dots look weird

Are there any OEM lights —tail lights, running lights, turn signals — that come in black? Or does AMGenral only make them in Green? I see lots of black ones online but I assume those are knockoffs?

Ugh. My new light switch also doesn’t work. So I must have a short somewheres. Does anyone know how I could test for the line/fixture that would be shorted? There’s no procedure for this in the TMs. Isn’t there a way to measure the resistance/ohms of a circuit ? Sorry I’m a novice with...

Why not just buy them straight from the Georgia corvette guy? He’s legit and they were only $2000 last time I saw his pricing

I had a chance to review the TM. It doesn’t mention anything about there being a short or looking for one. It just says to replace the switch if it’s broken…? I guess I’ll order one and hope for the best?

I got my truck from RWH so I believe it’s a legit and the original switch. The alternator was replaced with the 200 amp. I did remove the front blackout light and electrical taped the wires up under the hood. That’s the only thing I could think of that I may have done.

“Auto reset” — so what does that mean ?

All my lights went out at the same time with a click or pop. I can jump the wires to get my headlights to turn on. So I assume it’s my switch and my fuse popped. I can replace the light tri switch easy enough, but why would my fuse have blown? Do these just have a shelf life or what?

Had the same thought. The gauge seemed accurate enough. Confirmed with a laser. I ordered the fan clutch today. I’ll post some pics of the radiator when I get to the repair

Beautiful truck you have there. Did you make that?? Does it help any?

More - really hard to capture with the camera

Where did you find that price? I linked to the one previously but apparently it may be old or expired? Idk. I was gonna order from a known quantity and get some other parts when I do. How does one know when it would be worth replacing the radiator? Radiator has to be removed to get to this...

I replaced my thermostat first. Didn’t fix it. Haven’t had time to try the fan clutch yet