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Wow ! I cannot believe you found that ! Was that a "private" message, or did I post that ? Either way I'm glad you have it. Cannot believe it's been over 5 years ! I thought it was just a couple of years ago.

That "Tug" has some sweet axles under it ! Outer planetary hubs ! That thing can pull some serious weight. Would love to see that one restored.

That is the "million dollar" question. Go with a soft lining and save drums, (but eat linings faster) or go with a harder lining and save on relining sooner but eating up drums faster. I tend to go with softer linings since drums cost more than brake shoes do. There is also the newer linings...

I cannot remember the name, but years ago when I was in a "airpack booster" rebuild phase I found a company that could resleeve a bore with stainless steel sleeves. I should look and see if I saved the name somewhere. I did post about it, but finding old posts anymore is almost impossible (for...

What he said !

I've seen a Deuce that had lengthened the upright Bows so he could stand up straight under the cover. He added two feet to the sides length using decking wood. I believe it was that synthetic stuff. Still looked pretty cool. Kinda like an old "Woody" car. He tapered the front to go down to the...

Coming in late to this party, but the best transmission would be the Allison 1000 found behind a 4X4 Chevy with a DuraMax. Not only will you have the transfer-case adapter on the transmission, but you can buy an adapter to fit a NP205 transfer case to it. The latest Allisons can handle well over...

I haven't seen stock brake shoes for years now. I take mine to the reline shop in downtown Seattle. They can put on any type of lining you want. From extremely hard "G" to butter soft "A" linings. I bought my own relining riveter a few years ago. Just need the special "Die" to fit the rivets.

With the rod off the crank like that you would lose oil pressure immediately. Then other parts would start to seize. Either your engine would just slow down and seize or blow a few rods through the block. Seen it both ways. This engine will have severe wear on all parts. Be careful what you...

Well everyone who needs some should stock up now ! I have enough sets to replace all mine twice. Stored away in sealed buckets.

I'm afraid your correct about the caps being "just a memory" . I haven't seen any in years now. The last ones I actually put my eyes on where at a "swap meet" in Monroe, WA.

Yes. Any product that has the MIL spec 5606 in it should be OK. Though this does have the "A" which means it has other additives in it.

Thats reversed right ? I priced out a 3ft by 10ft by 1" thick plate for another work bench two weeks ago. It would cost me $1000.00 ! Five years ago my last bench cost me $200.00. Prices have gone crazy on everything lately. So I went to an auction last week and bought a 21ft by 3ft by 2.25"...

Well the best option would be to use the MIL spec oil. The problem there is the cost since it requires you to add oil on a regular basis, as a small amount of oil is expelled on every brake application. The "Silicone" grease lasts years though. I have two airpacks on my Deuce and have silicone...

I would not use air tool oil in the airpack. It does not have the anti-rust/corrosion inhibiters like the MIL spec oil does. It would basically "flush" out the cylinder as that is it's job in an air tool.

If the cam still spun, then you could remove the cam and hold-down plate in one assembly. I've done that many times in the past. Then you put the shaft in a press and using a bearing splitter push off that gear. Since it is frozen you will need to press it off in the field and that involves the...

That's so funny ! Reminds me of what some stranger at the gas station said when I rolled up with my Deuce. He was absolutely positive the Deuce could go completely under water and come out half a mile away with no problems and no modifications. I tried to explain that the engine needed to...

The average drum brake system has a pressure of 800 PSI in the 1/4" to 5/16" lines. Now multiply that by the surface area of the piston and you will get the pressure the housing needs to hold. Then you need to factor in a safe working pressure and burst pressure. Usually it is 3:1 . It's been a...

Yes I believe that is the number. It is "red" and the MIL number is either 5606 or something really close. It's about $50.00 a quart. Though I got a break on buying a gallon of it. There are several companies selling it now in smaller quantities. You used to have to buy it in fifty-five gallon...

Well there's two ways to go that I know of off hand. One, find the Snap-On tool that uses a round pull leg that you install through the gear holes and swivel to catch the backside of the gear. The second is to use a "wide" bar puller to catch the outside of the gears teeth. Be careful with this...