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Each one of these takes a couple hours to put together, so I can't do them all at once, but my next one will be on battery systems, which will cover charge rates, losses, load distribution, etc and will hopefully create a better picture on how solar integrates into the electrical system.

Yup. That's why I put a disclaimer in my post saying that I am making my description as simple as possible, so people with zero experience or electrical knowledge can understand it :) I've found that giving too much info just leaves people not caring. It's easier to give a brief synopsis that...

- Errata/Misc - ---------------- There are some flexible, thin panels, instead of the more rigid framed panels. The downside with the flexible thin panels is they tend to be less durable, and more prone to heat stress/cracking. I do not suggest them unless they're a temporary solution...

Charge Controllers So, above we talked about how to wire panels, and parallel vs series, and how that impacts voltage and amperage... Now comes the part where that juice gets converted into something you can use... This is where the charge controller comes into play. There are some...

Wiring So, awesome, I got these panels.. .... What the #%(&# DO I DO WITH THEM?! I'll go into more detail on the charge controllers in a bit, but first, let's talk about panel layout. Panels are just like batteries in terms of being able to be put in parallel, or series, configuration, just...

Intro I'm going to cover some fundamentals of solar power including types of panels, safety equipment, and best practices when implementing a solar system. Electrical is an entirely different subject that I'll go into at a later date, and will discuss integration into an existing system, but...

Headlight switches go bad. I assume you have the 3 lever switch and not the push button? Have you tested power OUT of the switch? If you have power IN to the switch, but no power OUT, you found your problem.

If you google the NSN, and/or GM part number, you should be able to detailed specs. I've used both to get detailed specs on bolts, nuts, etc.

The ENTIRE electrical system diagram fits on a single sheet. It's not that hard to test some switches, or trace some wires...

My very, VERY first time in a deuce... I may or may not have missed reverse, and ended up in 2nd, and hit the 5 ton in front of me instead of backing up... LOL

Welding is basically shorting out the batteries. You don't wanna do that.. They can and do explode. The only time I'd ever consider welding with batteries is if they were a great distance away, not near or in my truck, completely disconnected from the truck, NOT needed to start the truck, and...

Here's what I used. 1500A rated https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW4V66I/ You can use it to isolate 2 banks of batteries.

Hagerty told me they only required the vehicle to be in a secure location, such as a locked/fenced area, preferably covered but not necessary. I'm thinking state law may be coming in to play.

and as I said, most of these people are looking at taking their home, on the road.. Not making a vehicle, into a home. They're STUCK on 'we need 110v'... since EVERYTHING runs off 110v in modern RVs.... because they assume they're gonna be at a park with power or something. Very different setup...

Whole house systems fall under the multi-battery and multi-KW setup I mentioned before. A mobile setup for 12V is a COMPLETELY different animal than a 24 or 48V setup for home, where 99% of your electricity use is through an inverter and 110V. A lot of these setups are relying on 110V...

When putting up panels, you can run 96V of panels in series if you have a charge controller that can handle it. The advantage is, smaller gauge wires. No real advantage going from 12V to 24V or 48V unless you're dealing with MASSIVE battery systems in multi-KW range with high draw, then the...

No doubt 24V was to be able to charge from the vehicle's alternator, or to jump the vehicle using the house batteries as a spare set, essentially. A good solar system makes that not needed, HOWEVER.........you have options Option 1 is to put a small solar panel dedicated for the starter...

You're adding more points of failure. More switches = more to go wrong. Also, you need isolate shore power and gen so you're not backfeeding the shore plug...unless you intend to do that... A simple 4 position (Inverter, generator, shore power, off) would make the most sense, IMO. Those...

There are a couple things that matter but don't matter at the same time. The best oils available in the 60's are utter #%(& compared to even the crappiest oils today. Modern enhancements in lubricity, additive packages, detergents, surfactants, etc. mean you're already giving it something...