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https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/84/5421/CTIS%2DSpindle%2DHub%2DSeal Scroll down to related items for bearing hub seals—

Only doing rears right now. Fronts will be another time; looking forward to learning from you. What are you using for a seal driver? The tool I found is $200, though I don't want to do this again, so $200—

Back to seal purchases. Redoing our rear axle we purchased hub and CTIS seals from Oshkosh (OSE), I view OSE better than ebay and some others—

Eastern. Though we ordered 5; one that arrived was not a Hutchinson and we sent it back as it would allow beads to enter the space between the beadlock and rim cylinder. They refunded us for the one we sent back. Still awaiting arrival of a fifth for the spare— {EDIT: buying used items over...

We are now running rubber Hutchinson beadlocks, 24 ounces, using 1/2" stainless bearings, dynamic balancing beads and 24 ounces, fish weights held on with extra split rim nuts opposite the CTIS wheel valves. [edit: added a photo of how we attacked the fish weights. @Gunny 0369 did it much...

This is silly perhaps, but we swapped the voltage and water temperature gauges and the 12volt and emergency flasher switches. We have been looking at reorganizing the dash layout to easier monitor vitals. After contemplating adding transmission temperature, rpm, current gear and drawing new...

I have avoided commenting as stacks are not desirable to my thinking. I would run it out the back as @GeneralDisorder suggested. Out the back is straight forward and functional—

@Keith Knight have you found a CTIS hub seal driver? Or what's your plan?

What special tools do you have or need? We just noticed gear lube coming out the rear axle vent; traced it to the right rear CTIS axle seal, there is gear lube in the banjo bolt =/ Not as big as the front axle job though—

Welcome!

So, all marker, brake, blinker lights, work fine as the headlights alone blink inappropriately? Are all the lights LED, incandescent, or mixed? [edit: I wish I was as smart as @Ronmar}

We are shipping ours to you for autopsy—

And it is still possible that resistor and the R13 under the PDP are both blown which in our experience lit the ABS dash light. When you connect to the diagnostic port does J1939 and J1703 both connect and read? Resistor plug under the PDP Pulled the caps off two burnt out resistors...

Here is a photo of the area with some labeling and another of the box the jumper cuts out of the ECM circuit—

The ABS cycles upon power up. When we were having trouble with the J1939 resistors at power up the ABS light would come on (as it always does), go off while checking the four spots around the truck, (rear, front, rear, front) and then come back on and stay on. Our J1939 resistors were burning...

Our 2003 M1078A1 also looks like @GeneralDisorder And doing the test the rear absolutely vents as pressing the pedal, the front upon pedal release. This is good to know, thanks @Ronmar

Have you checked the flasher relay (PDP) and the brake light switch (pedal)? Schematics are at the back of certain TM's—

Photos and details on your bushings/bolts would be cool. Please share—

Here's where we started our swap to a 24v 200a alternator on a modified mount, pulled the LBCD and added a Victron 24/12v 70a converter at the passenger foot kick. m1078a1 cab and chassis electrical upgrades @MatthewWBailey swapped using a pad mount alternator. We still have a working 24/12v...

Welcome! Here on the forum you will likely find what you need for this and other issues that may arise. First you may want to look in the TM section: Forums/Technical Manuals/FMTV> While not a TM for the M1084, the M1083 (and other A0 FMTV's) have a similar light switch. The...