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I wanted to avoid removing material, focusing upon the deposits of what I think was burnt grease. Fortunately the bearing didn't score the spindle—

The part I haven't figured out: The ungreased bearing and CTIS taking on gear lube are unrelated? The MV gods saved my spindle?

Soaked in parts solvent; cleaned up with parts brush, scotch brite hand pad; finished with safety razor. How can I do better? I went ahead and ordered a new race, if I am awaiting a bearing why not replace the race, too?

The spindle and inner bearing race cleaned up pretty well, feels smooth and silky. There is one spot on the race I don't like the feel, though spinning our good inner bearing in it sounds right when compared to spinning in the other inner race. The ungreased bearing sounds bad and feels...

No idea about mounting on a 1083, but a friend of mine that off-roads months at a time uses GeoPros behind his Jeep Wrangler. Here is a link to his latest adventure: Alaska— on a Jeep forum if you search for @wibornz he has threads talking about the trailers and his mods One to his youtube...

When packing our 4x4 vehicles we use this small pail from NAPA: I didn't even think about a MilSpec, just grabbed another pail off the shelf. Specs "Aluminum Complex, NLGI #2 Grease, Water Resistant, Superior Rust & Corrosion Protection, Typical Drop Point 470 Deg F"

Went ahead and pulled the left rear. Inner bearing packed thank goodness. Isn't that odd? Just dropped the right side hub and bearing in parts cleaner to soak a bit before cleaning up for inspection; the left side looks good. Headed into town for some scotchbrite pads and such to see...

I don't know the military history. Previous owner was the City of Mercedes, Texas—

Pulled the right rear to replace all the seals since the CTIS is showing gear oil at the banjo bolt. It looks like that may have been a blessing. In inner bearing and hub seal look miserable. We'll clean it all up in the morning to start planning next steps. Hoping the spindle cleans...

We disconnect batteries when working on starters and alternators, believing the greater risk is to electrical system if the disconnect is flipped on a whim. I'd rather buy an alternator than an ECM—

Keep us posted, please. Rick did our tune, we need to add the sensor, too—

I have been meaning ask about this. I thought I'd read somewhere here there was an added sensor for the 330hp tune—

With the LBCD and remote disconnects removed wouldn't it be better to have the alternator connected to the battery side of the manual disconnect rather than feeding directly to X1?

For the 2 battery diagram using the one above: DELETE BT2 and BT4 with their connections to BT1 and BT3; then REATTACH BT4+ to Disc12v at BT3+ to Disc12v

I would plan out your loads. The first Victron running the truck will likely never approach capacity; the second Victron all depends upon what you are adding–

We have the rear axle out of service at the moment. Once it is all back together we will hook it all up and see what we learn. That laptop is very nice—

In our 2003 M1078A1 the lower rpm range of 3rd gear is not locked. When watching the gear status either on Bluefire or using the DPA III+ connected to a laptop you can seen the torque converter locked status change. And you certainly feel the change in the seat as well. I'll try to pay...

1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's and EcoHubs in 3L would be about 32mph to 49mph; 1,600 to 2,400 rpm with 3.07's alone in 3L would be about 16mph to 24mph. To be at 16mph with 3.07's and EcoHubs the pacbrake would have to lower the rpm's to 800 and the torque converter would need to remain...

I have never owned one either, this LMTV has me buying tools I didn't already have. Like impact tools and such, 20 bolts a split rim over 200#?

With the EcoHubs on 3.90's I wish I could reprogram the pedal to react more slowly at first and progressively become more responsive. Better yet 4.50's might be about perfect—