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A good rule of thumb on all PTO's is 0.006" to 0.008" of lash. To little and when the gears get hot you start to bind things. Too much and you start to wear gears to much. I tend to stay at the 0.008" mark myself.

That does work great until you need to stop !

I had originally thought to put mine on the side like you did, but after trying to put the pieces up there to check it out I decided against it. I could barely lift them in place ! I'm only getting older, so I needed another option.

If anything where able to bend that tow-bar the way it is, then having a bent tow-bar would be the least of my worries ! I would be having a straight "person to person" talk with GOD at this point ! First off it would have to get through the bumpers, which are held together with 1/2" grade 8...

Yes stainless steel is allowed but it is very hard to work with unlike the "Cunifer" lines. I used stainless steel lines in my 1984 CUCV and it's been working fine these last 23 years.

I posted about them, but it was "Peashooter" who originally was selling them in his brake kits.

Here you go: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?184596-Front-Mounted-Tow-Bar .

Totally agree with ZiggyO . I built my own and it is far superior to the "military" one. One switch and your good to go.

That is a nice place to carry it too ! I installed mine on my front bumper since it is too difficult for me to lift it into the bed anymore. I didn't want to add anymore weight up front, but I didn't have many options left to me.

Like I mentioned before, you should always replace the inner tube and flap wheN replacing a tire. The inner tube and the flap take a "set" against the tire. Meaning all the little irregularities of the tire get impressed into the tube and flap. So when you go and reinstall it on a different tire...

That looks like a lot of fun !

Your very welcome.

Yes, made in America through importing all parts from China !

Nice job !!! Looks almost factory ! [thumbzup]

Power steering fluid is basically Hydraulic fluid. Most all manufactures recommend staying under 200 degrees F. Anything over that and your breaking down the oil much faster then normal. Try adding a small oil cooler to the return line. They can lower your temperatures by as much as 20 degrees F...

Yep. You need to replace the inner tube and flap (or boot) on every tire change. Of course if it's only been a few thousand miles you can reuse the inner tube. Most people are unaware of how much heat is generated in a tube style tire. That is one of the several reasons manufacture's went away...

Your going to have some major expenses if you try and go with a three axle system to. Plus this is something that has never been done before, so there is going to be "Research and Development" expenses added on. Just saying, this could get extremely expensive really fast !

Remember the torque rods also attach to the differential housing. If you try and move the whole rear assembly your messing with the driveline angles now to. It is a real complicated thing to consider.

Constantly shifting the Hydra-Matic transmission is not good. Any automatic that is constantly going in and out of gear what mechanics call "hunting" is a bad thing. You need to check the throttle linkage and the governor for proper adjustment.

There are several reasons not to do this. One front end stability, ie" steering issues. You can get away with a bit of funny business on the front axle, but too much and your steering geometry goes out the window. Real hard to correct it. Second and possibly the strongest reason not to lift is...