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Interesting! Mine is just a plug on the 531. So from my motorcycle days do you screw in the stick to get the level or just pop it in without screwing it in. I ended up draining the oil and getting a proper measuring cup to get mine right. Dang thing smoked for at least 30 minutes after that...
I got that too. It won't effect me since I don't buy things that cost much. The scale was already 15%. It raised the fee for things over 5 or 10k I think...it was 10% now 15%...which is nuts!! I think in 2018 the fee was 5%. They don't do the pallet pot luck stuff anymore either.
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There's no stick in the 831 like the 531 then. Ugh. Mine I can't see much from the filler but I don't know if it's the same on the 831 but the 531 takes under a quart. I didn't have a way to measure the oil going in and guessed wrong big time. On a side note there wasn't a live bug within 50...
Just out of curiosity how full is the engine oil? I got a 531 that I put to much in and it smoked and ran like heck.
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If that coolant temp sensor gets disconnected the glows do the 3 30 second post running cycles every time it starts. I run 60g in mine. Mostly because I can get them at the local parts store easily. The 13g is the stock one if I remember right it has the thinner blade connectors. I haven't...
That sounds good. Sometimes the injector pintle gets pushed open with the engine compression too. The injector shouldn't cost much. You find a part number in the tm?
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So my thought on testing the injector would be jump starting it with the nato plug, with the injector removed but with the metal line hooked up. Could get a see of what the injector is doing turning over fast. Could use the battery with a good jump pack on it too but thinking the faster it turns...
Never apologize bud!! I don't know these that well so it threw me off thinking there was a different model that was offered.
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Ok I'm confused. I thought the 831 had one cylinder. Is there another type out there? I have a 531 and thought the engines were similar.
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Sounds like the injector is stuck open dumping fuel. With the black smoke and the red exhaust points to to much fuel. Could be the timing is way off too or both.
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Ok then you gotta keep it simple and make sure the emergency shut off switch is pulled out and start checking for power starting at the batteries out. I usually split stuff in half...start at the batteries and the start switch and see where the power stops so it isolates which direction to go.
That box hanging out of the fuses is not stock plus the wire tagged under the light fuse. No idea what's going on there you'll have to figure out what that is. The starter relay is under the dash to the left where the radio should be. It may be bad...you can unplug it and jump the 2 big wires...
There should be a plastic tube gasket that goes over the mirror post that gets cinched when you tighten down those bolts.
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Ugh...so when you turn the start knob to prime the fuel pump doesn't turn on and these test lights won't turn on? No guage lights?
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I have a bunch of led lights in my house too. The ones on dimmers definitely go nuts when a dryer or well pump turns on. I found getting the load up to 50% or more load constant takes a good bit of the surge out. There is an adjustment for the governor too that's in the tm if you want to play...
I bought used ones from a guy in Jonestown pa and a guy in Massachusetts. The guy in Massachusetts has cucv parts, so I get a bunch of stuff off of him. I have bought rear window cranks for the 1009 from lmc and have been good, those are hard to come by.
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Yes if you had the capacitor inline on the blower motor still that can backfeed and do weird stuff when they go bad. I have had several on the wiper motor go bad too.
Ok. Whenever a charging problem comes around in anything I approach it the same way. Keeping it simple starting with battery cables and connectors, then a solid battery charge and test. Alternator connectors etc. I'm not sure that the alternator can make the genset not produce power though so it...