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So, you also ran a 12v ignition fed to the driver's side?

I like this split bar one: After thinking I could adapt the unused PDP slots to new uses I realize your suggestions are cleaner and easier to document/isolate when gremlins appear. Now I am pondering either one split by 12v/24v battery or two 12v/24v each split battery/ignition. Forcing me...

What did you tap for 12v to run the Bluefire?

Thank you. I do have mud now. I'll try that and report back so we'll know if we should add to the list—

Thank you all. Good comments and solid advice as usual. We'll button up in the morning and drive to lunch with friends. Maybe even try to test the ABS system on the way. What a great forum, I am grateful for you all. It would have taken much longer with less confidence without your cajoling...

Maybe. The light was off until we replaced the ABS light circuit breaker which had been removed. Since installing a new circuit breaker light has been on. The DPA III+ has been finding faults with voltage or open circuit on ABS while all other ECU's reported. Replacing R12 and R13 (both...

Well, of course it was not just R13 under the PDP; R12 near the Cat ECU is also looking like blackened redfish, in and out. So, the question is since everything works, EXCEPT ABS do/did we have: 1— old resistors that died; 2— a bad ABS ECU; 3— a bare hot wire grounding out? I am not...

duplicate–

New resistor arrived and tested, isolated, I wanted to check before removing the PDP again. It looks like we have a winner. I hopefully that is our only ABS issue—

Thanks for sharing. May want to add one to MV of the month?

Certainly. My thought is an electric DC compressor will be more effective and efficient than one driven by AC or an engine driven compressor. 1– on a vehicle, not connected to shore power, a DC system avoids the loss of conversion to AC; 2– an electric compressor can run without the engine...

I haven't had a bump to the starter, though I often see the CHARGING SYSTEM dash light fade away when working on the electrical system as I turn the system on and off at the main switch near the NATO plug when I leave the dash power switch closed. Our unit is a 2003 M1078A1 with LBCD—

Right, though the Aliexpress units have a small compressor listed. I really like the CruisnComfort units, though $7,000 means pulling out the wallet in my front left pocket with my right hand: not happening—

Here is one with the same style compressor and condensor, different evaporator (head) unit— [ EDIT — This looks like the unit they installed—]

These trucks are confusing—

Interesting AC unit. Is that like a 24v minisplit? I like the idea of not adding a compressor to the engine. In the photos on their website it looks like a single fan condenser and electric compressor is mounted on the rear of the cab—

I appreciate all the help and even the cajoling. Glad to have the testing kit and will add additional software over time. Would very much like more information about our unit. The -20's [1998, before the A1] don't have items like the ABS brakes, so where did you find the specifications for...

Right: auto off goes to zero. Thank you. Thank you. I have been wondering the same most of today, hoping someone else would speak up. I'd prefer to purchase a ready built, though I can source the parts, test, and pot my own once confirmed. Thank you—

The heated fuel bowl: more misinformation shared by folks at MME— [EDIT: I shouldn't pick on MME. I love my truck and they helped me have the confidence to start this journey]

Not knowing the proper testing protocol intended for Pvt. Snuffy, nor the specifications of the resistor, beyond 60 or 120 ohms. I can only say 11.5 kOhms may be close. The other tests suggest failed resistor. The isolated test, as we would do for one on a circuit board suggests the resistor...