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An easier way would be to change over to a straight 24 volt alternator. Something in the 120-150a range. Use a 100a battery equalizer power converter for the 12v. Add in a battery disconnect like the newer A1 trucks have. Box under the spare tire is only there to protect against improper battery...

I find the regulator confuses people. The front terminal is 24v excite/regulation and the back terminal marked AC is actually an AC output. Can be used to drive a tach and some other stuff. No idea what it's connected to on the first gen trucks.

I have found the parts tm sometimes has older or discontinued part numbers. At the end of the parts tm there is part number to nsn lists. You can search the nsn I usually use parttarget or webflis and come up with alternative part number and it will show if its a canceled nsn, and if so then it...

R279X is the U joint they are widely available. Get under the truck with some gloves on. Grab a driveshaft and shake hard feel for play especially in the slip joint. Do both. If you can feel ANY play then its too much wear and something needs to be replaced. No highway driving till its fixed.

I have found the alternators to be very reliable. Most of the time its the truck wiring and you loose the 24v to the regulator, which is used to excite it. No 24v to excite the alt will just spin and make no power.

Did you activate them via the bottom right control on the hyd manifold over the fuel tank?

Could be hooked up wrong. Playing with one right now. Could be bad valve.

The tube with fins does a poor job of drying the air. You will have issues with moisture in the air system they all do with that style dryer.

This will work fine and under 12 dollars. Spade terminals are the same and should plug right in. Mount hole will have to be made slightly larger.

Too fancy. Get a simple 2 contact switch.

It's a momentary switch with 2 spade connectors. Nothing special no Packard connectors. Pretty much any momentary switch you can get mounted will work.

You start in 2nd and have 6 forward gears. 1st is low range.

MD3070PT trans. Wtec 2 till 97 usually unless upgraded and wtec3 98-2003ish.

Thats your problem. And mode is not low range it justs locks the center diff making it 50/50 awd. You have to arrow down to 1 for low range.

You can drive it after pressing the mode button? Or pressing arrow down till its in 1 low range?

His is A1 computer motor. First gen trucks are mechanical motor.

Do you feel you lost alot of the low end power with the gearing upgrade?

Depending on how the governor is set, with the new dryer you might be down a psi or two. Shouldn't make any real difference. If the pressure is too low to trip the ctis switch you may have to turn it up a tad. Above they wanted a bit more powerful moisture dump out the bottom of the dryer. A bit...

I would wait till it's installed. Governor is a simple adjustment if needed. Which it may not be.

The newer style is a bit more air flow restrictive. Turn the air governor up 5 psi.