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Never had a truck with the freezing one, but the turbo cool off period one is usually between the instrument panel and the glovebox.
The checklist I've always seen as a sticker as opposed to a plate and it's usually on the upper part of the drivers door, near the front.
Just because it came off an LDT doesn't mean it isn't an LDS turbo that the service (or a civvy owner) swapped because they had it laying around.
Go to the other thread and post a few pics of yours.
I believe so.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61801-Turbo-part-number-ID
EDIT: After re-reading that thread, not so sure. Please carry discussion over to that thread so we can finish that thread and find an answer.
No toy on Earth is practical. Antique cars, sports cars, boats, airplanes, etc. They're all expensive and the only way to do a cost/benefit analysis is to somehow quantify the joy you get out of them.
That's a great score, good on you for saving it. Although finding the right rear body will be difficult.
I wish I could help, but my knowledge of these is near non-existent.
Everybody pay attention:
I have a set of brake lines off my '67 I am doing a ground up resto on. I have found a local place that says they can replicate my factory system, but I don't know about cost yet. If people are serious, I can have 5-10 sets made. I'll have to inquire about whether...
Oil is 60:
Not sure what the fuel is, it's in one of the TM's.
Be careful overtightening the oil bolts: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?15029-I-think-I-broke-the-oil-filter-canister-bolt!!
I think I've said this before (and I know Jwaller has), but the repro M44 hoses are atrocious-they dry rot much quicker than the originals. I'd say on average they're only good for about 5 years and that's absurd. Especially on a single circuit system.
If someone would tool up and start...