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The ones I have come equipped with a valve that is manually moved where your little red 'automatic' valve is located. They work fine. You may want to remove (unscrew) yours and get a replacement with a manual valve.
It's one of the reasons I have the MKT system setup as a First Responder Feeding System, and have undergone training in Disaster Response, First Aid, and became an accredited SaniServe Manager.
Just a short video of the DUKW moving from it's storage location around to the wash rack where we will start working on fixing up the hull and making other repairs to get it roadworthy as a vehicle of the FMF-PAC of WWII.
https://youtu.be/_T5hxaeGmUc
Have you read the TM (TM-11-6625-3015-14) to see how it is supposed to be used? When all else fails, RTFM. Because then you can say "when I do paragraph x-x of TM 11-6625-3015-14, it does not produce the results the next paragraph says should be there". THEN, the guru's can give you more...
Depends on which 'adapter' you have. Ones I have come with a small ball valve that has to be opened to prevent a vacuum. Others are meant to be upside down (but those are not meant for fueling MBU's). There is at least one other type that I've seen.
It's also a good idea to put the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in 5th gear when idling the engine. Probably run it for an hour, just so any moisture that has condensed is driven out of the system. Do the run up a hill at full tilt about once every six months and you will keep...
It's the engine that's being rebuilt that requires a different torque spec LDS-465-2 takes more torque as you found out, so if you are building an LDT-465, or an LDS-465-1A, you use the lower value.
Many communities have such an event, which allows children of all ages an opportunity to get up close the large or 'strange' (read old, military, etc.) vehicles. Since the deuce has Armstrong steering to begin with, it is difficult to get the steering wheel to make a full revolution while...
Easiest way to check is to look at the end of the studs. Somewhere under all the layers of paint will be either a "L" or a "R", normally the "L" ones will be on the driver's side and the "R" ones will be on the passenger side. But snuffy maintained these poor forlorn creatures, and he has been...
One Adult large green tee + one coin. PayPal sent. Adam (ferro) should pick up for me, else Cabell Garbee can get it and have for me at the VA Rally in September, if Adam forgets.
As long as you are rolling, the Armstrong steering is not too bad, esp. on the open road where the turns are gradual. I'll be taking my shop van to Touch-a-Truck this Saturday, and I always tell the pre-teen boys if they can turn the steering wheel one full turn, I'll give them the truck...
Have you tried annealing the copper washer? IE, get it cherry red and drop it in cold water? Copper work hardens and becomes difficult to conform to other surfaces. The annealing restores the softness long enough to tighten it down.
Check both sides of the jack (inside and outside). You will probably find the 'other size' on the inside side. And a 24mm 12 point socket seems to work on either of the two sizes I've encountered.
Mark,
That's what I've found too! About 3-4 hours to either open up or close up both of mine by myself, and that is with the side panels stowed. Makes for a long day. Goes faster with a crew of 6-10 at the GA Rally, esp. when a few have done it before.
New posters need to go back and read all the way through this thread. The answer to your problem lies there, if you are wise enough to heed it. Those who only want to complain, keep on trucking!
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