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This may or may not apply, I had a civilian truck with a 6.2 (so did my dad) and both trucks had problems with belts. Gates lasted the longest at about 2 years maybe a bit less. After some research with a friendly NAPA clerk we discovered that there was a "preferred " belt, and all the others...
depends on what you have, I have disc brakes in the rear and the kit is available or you can fab up your own easy peasy, but that's for full floating rear ends.
Serp belt?? It should have V belts. Oh well, make sure you check the diff's gear oil, often overlooked. Wouldn't hurt to check the glow plugs and keep an eye on the IP, the throttle shaft seals seem to have a tendency to dry out when in storage and then start leaking. YMMV
Engine went in today and found out that I could not use the left 6.5 exhaust manifold as the clutch slave cylinder is in the way.
So the 6.2 mani went back on, that leads to the problem of the cross over pipe not fitting, if it's one thing it's another.
I'm thinking of trimming the right hand...
I think you have your answer but just don't believe it. The signs do NOT point to a head gasket.
I've seen healthy engines with bubbles in the rad= no problems.
Coolant expands when it gets hot, a full system will push coolant into the over flow tank and out of the tank if over full.
How do you...
I'm assembling everything on the engine stand mostly to see how it all goes together. Where do most people tap into the oil system for the turbo supply? From what I can see online with a 6.5 it looks like it comes from the front of the block on the right hand side? I'm looking at running a line...
Well, I dropped the IP and injectors off to have them gone thru and looking at the truck I realized I'm going to need a different exhaust system! Pity, the dual set on it now is like new ;( . Any suggestions? I haven't measured it yet but the down pipe looks to be about 3" ,if so should I run 3"...
Back in the old days (kinda like this thread LOL) we would use any old condenser from when we changed the points and attach it to the alternator to kill the whine, IIRC sometimes to the radio itself. All the condenser does is 'leak' a little bit of power to ground and thus kills the whine, how I...
I had the same truck (without GV over drive ) and put a 700 R4 in so ended up about the same final ratio.
235/85/r16 tires are about 31.5" tall when new I needed new tire and went with what I believe was a 305 or 33" tire and never looked back. I didn't have a tach in that truck so no idea of...
I'd do a test like AC said and or use a known good pump to supply the IP. If that works you know the problem is in the tank/lines/filter or the electric pump. Just a quick thought here, are you sure the electric pump is facing the correct way? Sounds stupid but ya never know, always check the...
Nows a hellve a time for me to think of it but, (don't ya just love that?) I reviewed this and wondered if you could gain the room needed by ditching the mechanical fan and clutch and going with an electric unit, that would give you quite a bit of room to move the engine forward several inches...
I've never changed one over but I don't see it being hard, One alternator and two batteries hooked in series and a few other things. Use the pink wire to the IP and move it to the distributor. Other that changing the starter I think even those wires can stay. Do away with the GP wires and I...