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I'd be spending some time with the "family friend" and find out exactly what he did and carefully ask him why he did it. The stock system is a good system, a bit odd but it has lasted all this time. Personally I'd go back to the 24v starter as it uses only half the amps of a 12v system. I've...

That angle and any published data would only be for stock trucks in new condition, no saggy worn springs or lift kits and big tires, so each truck will be different.

Sorry, wish I could answer that question.

Check on flebay for used 6.5 oil pump drive, save $$$

Yep, the cooler the air the better, not only does it help cool the engine but cool/cold air is denser, meaning it has more O2 per cubic whatever.

With all those above mentioned 'improvements', I think you should gain a tire burning -head snapping couple of horse power. The 6.2 was never designed to be a powerhouse and no matter what you do it never will, or it never will for very long! By all means a new dampener and a cool air intake...

Soak it down with penetrating oil and grab it tightly with vise grips and apply pressure using a pulling-twisting motion , KEEP IT IN A STRAIGHT LINE, DO NOT GO SIDE TO SIDE AS IT WILL BRAKE OFF! Work it out a bit and then push it back in just a bit and apply more oil and repeat. Some people...

Does this happen all the time, or just when engine is cold? Cold meaning first start up of the day. What happens if you start it in the AM and just let it sit and run? I'm thinking lift pump or sorry to say the IP.

Yup, time for a new pump. This has been covered many times in CUCVRUS threads, I'd look them up and get a good look at the pump you want and the one that looks like it but doesn't work well. Also, you are going to change the oil right?

It's got to be either coolant or fuel, personally I'd be hoping for the fuel. BTW, the pump is the only place it could be coming from.

Check the alternator output, they have three 'legs' and if one diode burns out you lose 33% of charging and that would cause the light to come on when a load is put on it.

Been there done that many times, not doing it again! I've retired.

Your using a hose to find the leak, start at the bottom and work your way up, You can use duct tape to rule out things like the windshield and door seals ectra.

I've had a small roll around floor jack in my trucks for years and it's been very handy many times over, for me and others I've stopped to help. I also have a small piece of plywood so it doesn't sink in . I I was running a lifted truck I'd toss in a couple of 2"x4" blocks too.

I do something similar, I use old tie down straps from big trucks and trailers, you can find them for free alongside any highway!

I'm with Barrman on this. I don't think this would truly be feasible. By the time you pay for the truck and do all the fluids and tires, hoses and possibly an injector pump, you'd have quite a chunk of $$ into it and then add all the RV stuff and it just dosn't make sense to me. I know trucks...

I think they are all fail open vs fail closed, that would be real bad!

I wonder if a bit of water was in the IP and caused a bit of corrosion in the pump where the shut off solenoid is and making it stick, come to think about it I saw where you said you had power to the pick wire, but did the hear a click while unhooking /hooking it up? Check for the click and then...

If you have access to a radiator thermometer just drop it in the filler neck and see what the actual temp is. Or if your not old school like me and have an inferred thermometer use that. Those engines take a long time to warm up at low idle and the colder it gets the worse it gets. I use a...

Nope, it can be done with the mani in place. It's not easy , you will need some crows foot wrenches (i don't remember size) and some 3/8 drive extensions a 3/8 drive ratchet and some patience. Remove the air cleaner and using the extensions, go in from the back, you can't get much of a turn at a...