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I have had the same thing happen with 700R4 cases, I don't know if this would work but it's worth a look. The threads in the top two holes ripped out , I could thread a bolt in but it wouldn't hold. On the 700 those two hole are thru hole and there's just enough room to fit a nut behind it...

I take it that this was at one time a fire truck? Nozzle nutz love their lights! Many years ago I worked on a few ambulance's and fire PU's converted to brush trucks and the wiring was always a mess. All you can do is start following the wires and keep a test light handy.

If you look closely inside the cab on the floor you should be able to see the spot welds where the floor is welded to the floor brace/cab mount. Those welds will look like small (5/16") round depressions in the floors sheet metal and will be in two rows about 3" apart. What you want to do is...

Back in the day, when the kids were little, and I was perpetually broke I would have to only do the bare minimum on my truck, it's SOOO much nicer (but more work upfront) to just get it all done and not have to worry about it for years to come!

To me that sounds like play in the steering , not the suspension (ball joints). Not saying you are wasting your time, just make sure to check drag link,tie rods, idler arm and gear box. True dog walking is caused by something bent or out of place or out of spec and will not come and go!

I forgot about how that looks to someone that didn't know about it. Being an old auto body frame guy, when someone tells me it dogwalks I figure they more than likely knew it was.

I'm not going to guess about the ball joints, but they will not cause "dog walking". Dog walking is normally caused by a frame or rear diff that is out of alignment, that causes the rear end to be offset to one side and the steering wheel to be turned to counter it. Does this truck have a lift...

If you want a real loud blower type sound just replace the stock fan and clutch with a direct bolt on flex fan and put it on backwards. Don't ask, but it did sound like a blower!

Ahh, the K.I.S.S principle. Keep It Simple Silly! Work smarter, not harder!

I think I'd be talking to the people that made yours, take some pics and some measurements, preferably so they can read the measurements in the pic's. Be nice but firm, you paid for a product that would last longer than 1 year and be sure to mention that!

Never heard of that problem and I always seem to have the odd stuff like that happen to me! Please keep us updated on this!

Hummer tires are available in radial and bias belts, look and see what you have when checking tire pressure. IIRC the 16 inch tires are radial and the 16.5 are bias, may be wrong on that. Doubt it's the U joints, they will normally click and vibration doesn't go away.

While you have the tank out, remove the filter and use an air hose to blow any and all crud and old fuel BACK to the open line from the tank. Shouldn't be any crud but can't hurt to check, dump that fuel! It's not worth saving, replace it with new clean fuel and dump that old crap in with some...

To me it sounds like flat spots on the tires from sitting, it can happen overnight. Could you have an old set of bias belted tires? Those things would flat spot and run rough for about 10-20 miles before warming up and rounding out.

As far as the battery goes, be on the lookout for the left hand battery tray from a civilian Blazer, Suburban or truck, and mount one on each side, or have two on the right side and one on the left that powers the hotel load.

You already changed the sender, just pull it back out and with a few brass fittings and a TEE you can have both the light and gauge hooked up from the same port. Also what oil did you use? I've never used Sea Foam but that could've thinned out the oil some. If it is a little low on oil pressure...

I might have missed it but did you check BOTH tail light grounds at the body? Each light has a black wire going to the truck body, the need to be clean and tight, the truck bed needs to have a clean ground also, it should be grounded thru all the bolts to the frame but who knows?

More than one person has done it, myself, no. I would if I came across a CUCV that was hacked (I have most if not all parts) but if the 12V was working I'd probably would leave it. Yeah, lots of help here huh? I'd look it over real good, a tell-tale sign of a hack job would be any unsealed crimp...

If you are still stuck on the road side, run a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the FRONT battery (12volts) over to the pink wire on the injection pump. Then after making sure the truck is in park (double check) and or maybe the transfer case in in neutral, use a screwdriver or other...

I've driven a CUCV with a 4spd on the street and just like an auto if you are on the throttle making a corner than tires will squeal or something will break, simple solution is to ease thru the corners.