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I drilled a hole right behind the shift rod on the transmission and mounted a momentary switch, tapped into a 24vdc supply and ran a wire back to a single back up light behind the mud flap plate. I haven't crushed it yet and have been in the woods 2-3 times a week for a month now getting extra...

@ Jbulach.... whatever works for "them" is fine with me. And whatever I do that they don't like....too bad. I have been using that product for 45 years without any problem. http://www.rtsauto.com/should-you-put-anti-seize-on-your-lug-nuts-or-wheel-bolts/

don't forget the "never seize". I go through a small cn every couple years swapping out the studded tires every spring on all the vehicles, except the M35. I just run them off wiggle the wheel and slop some on, then tighten them back up. I bought a couple trucks up here where the wheels were...

[QthUOTE=fasttruck;2252049]Pic attached. Definitely cordless. thats exactly what I use. you can also bar the wheel into position, pry up rocks to put in a rut, hold up a log for cutting firewood etc...a real multi tool.

then go with the wire welding. 16 gauge is pretty thin and you'll blow through it often, then have to close the gap. Id use the wire feeder if I was doing it. I only use stick (SMAW) with heavier steel ( 1/4 inch above) or alloy applications.

Is this breaking some rules going off topic? I get carried away when its about building stuff.

the fire box has a bottom air supply to feed the fire, and a top one to help it draft into the lower part of the smoker.

here is the diverter pan with the fire box exhaust open on this end and the far end too. it has to flow across to get out the stack which will be on the top of this end.

heat/smoke from the fire box flows under the divider pan, which has a slight slope and "V" for drainage, to the opposite end then up across the food racks. It heats the divider pan, then has to flow completely across the food to the exhaust stack, then out. this makes sure there is no short...

10 hours with a wire feed is plenty when you use a flux core wire. if you are good at brazing, the TIG would be easy to learn, but you still need a TIG torch, preferably a foot pedal, and possibly a coolant tank and pump if you are going to exceed the duty cycle on the air cooled TIG torch...

Borrow or buy a lincoln sp100 weld pac wire feed welder. you can run flux core wire with it outside and don't have to worry about the wind blowing the shielding gas away. its 120vac input and cost under 400$ new. it will weld 20gauge (move quick) and up to 1/4 inch plate. Just keep the duty...

http://www.rocken-tech.com/Fuel_Lines.html

Shouldn't your injector shop be able to use the nuts off the line and make up a new one? Or another shop?

@ Cobra.. I think most owners in my area actually use their deuce/5 ton etc for a tool, rather than show. I see them parked around different places, and occasionally on the road, but most are either muddy, or got a snow plow attached. I myself am more interested in a parts type swap, than display.

Also, if you decide to use aluminum, which I wouldn't, you had better TIG weld it all. When MIG welding aluminum, you get a "cold start" where there is little penetration of the weld, and thats usually where a weld will eventually crack and fail. steel to a far lesser extent. Too many variables...

steel is 3x stronger than aluminum pound for pound, so its a lot cheaper in cost for the same strength required.....use steel. BTW steel rusts and can be easily repaired. Aluminum corrodes and is difficult to repair. I was a welder (aluminum)on the St Frances Challenge built at Stephens Bros in...

@ Who...excellent work and $$$$. Did you do Both rear axles? Do you hang out in the mountains and snow? I could use a set up like that, but Im building another house, and got to do one more when I finish this one.

the output shaft could be pitted or scored, the seal is a single lip seal and is riding on the wore area, or (doubtful) they installed it backwards.

Thats worth a whole lot of money! I had a 47 Chief when I was young...sold it for 800$....probablyworth 38000$ if restored. BTW off topic, but a guy up here rides a Ural side hack with 2wd here during the winter...he has studded dirt bike tires on it.

@ Rusty...How do you feel about just driving the piss out of it 3-4 times a week like I do. I NEED it in the winter. It has a block heater, Haldex 24vdc air dryer (your recommendation), #1 fuel mix, re routed cab heater intake, tire chains, LED lights including trans operated back up light...