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Im going to do the same thing with the primary fuel line but run a aeroquip type in place of the copper one along the crossmember. Im off road more than on road.

Make a "allen key" by using the correct size bolt head that fits, and then double nut the other end and use a wrench on the double nut side to remove the plug. when you drain the tank into containers, let them sit overnight to separate all the water and dirt before pouring it back into the truck...

Please take time to swap #1 and #6 injector and see if the noise moves forward. This can be done pretty quick and could save you hours of frustration......or add to it if the noise doesn't move, but will eliminate a major source of noise.

theres something wrong with his brakes. it should skid to a stop.

If you drop the pan, you might as well check the clearances on one or two rod and main bearings for piece of mind, and to eliminate a low oil pressure cause. Id lean toward a faulty gauge and bad injector. But thats a guess. My oil pressure idles at 30psi hot. I have to flick the gauge when I...

what do you plan on looking for in the lower end that would make a ticking noise? Nothing that I know of ticks in the lower.

Up grades so far since ownership. block heater, haldex air dryer, back up light, 24vdc Sherpa winch, snorkel, pyrometer, shift boots, 12vdc battery tray, wipers. But the best one has been re routing the air intake for the cab heat. I tested it today and Im confident that I'll be able to see out...

Not all, but the big 3, and it depends on the part...ECM's and stuff like that...forget it, brakes, engine parts, etc, yes they support it and so does aftermarket.

@ pitpawten......Concentrate on the drive train now, and then the cosmetics later. If I didn't have my Deuce last week, I'd be USCWAP. I have a F350 4x4 snowplow truck with a 460 engine that I am waiting for parts this week after a complete rebuild, and the weather is turning to ^^^^. I have a...

that orange is rust sediment that gets stirred up when the engine is running, then settles back down when off. Mine did the same thing. You have to flush it real good to get it out. A rust flush solution in it and a Tee at the heater hose with a garden hose running as the engine is running will...

Also cut BACK my fuel adjustment to lower the EGT, and reset the alarm set points on my pyrometer, as Im anticipating a heavy snow load and don't want the audio until 1175F and off at 1100F.

mounted a hydraulic pump for the snow plow Im going to build. Then re routed the cabin heat air intake to pull from the cabin and used a cheap aluminum dryer hose until I buy that expensive type if it works out. there is a "knock out" below the steering column that worked out perfect to bolt on...

Since its ticking, instead of knocking, Id still swap the 2 injectors so you can take #6 back to the shop and have them squirt test it again. Shops do screw up sometimes. Knocking is bad...ticking can wash the cylinder and score up a piston. I doubt anything is going to detonate.

@ Aussie....looks like you're ready to go fire wooding with me. Bring chains as it snowed, then rained on the road/trail and there is a sizable drop off part of the way down to the river. I am always alone back there without any communications, so I bring chains and I have a Sherpa (Aussie)...

Can you swap #6 injector with #1 and see if the noise moves to the front?

here's a link with some numbers. https://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php

will this help?

A rod or main knock is real distinctive...its a "knock" almost like on a door. You have a ticking sound like a valve adjustment. But mine sounds like that all the time until the rpm's come up above 1500.

http://www.diagnosticengineers.org/journal_%20articles/Ring%20Gaps%20vs%20Knowledge%20Gaps.php

Ring gap position is supposed to be staggered when installing them. there are often instructions stating it too. Im just stating that they will rotate around when the engine is running, so if you forget to do it, its not that critical.