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I understand, but they don't always rotate together and at the same rpm when the engine is running, so wherever you placed them, they've already moved around. You can google/research the data on it. The actual fit/gap between the individual ring when its placed into the cylinder is more critical...
piston rings rotate up to 1rpm at engine operating speed. Where ever you set them...they moved already. But you had better get that temp under control.
Blowby usually is from the rings not seating/broken in yet on a rebuild. Are you getting some blue smoke out the exhaust? Id be more concerned with the temp. it seems like a stuck thermostat. Also check the radiator for exhaust gases. you can get a kit from the auto parts store or watch for...
On a stock gas engine, the initial break-in is 30 minutes @ around 2500 rpms, so I'd guess the diesel would be at around 1700 rpms. You can look it up, but you'd get 20 different opinions.
@ Oerthedgde21... Do you have a pyrometer set up yet for your EGT? The engine will be tight for a while, and you may need some fuel adjustment using your EGT after your break in period. I have to turn mine down a bit tomorrow as I have been pulling some steep logging roads with loads of wood.
My Ford flatbed that I use for firewood, broke down in front of the barn yesterday (pure luck at the location) so I drove the Deuce down to where the loggers pulled out for the winter got a load of buckskin and birch firewood.
As Gringletaube said, if you can get two of the Timken seals in, the first one with the lip/spring on the oil side, and the second one with the lip/spring on the outside, this will prevent water from entering the pumpkin when it is submerged. I did that to a wagoner after numerous "drum puller"...
Im going to install loud speakers on my convoy light posts and loop " flight of the Valkyrie" and "stormbringer" real loud while Im plowing the apocalypse snow this winter. The moose and deer will love it.
@ Rusty.....so about 2000 gallons of refined oil to recover the cost, without factoring in the cost of the used oil, and energy cost to run a Laval as it has a good size heating element. I guess the remaining cost is where you get the oil, how much does it cost per gallon, how much of a "blend"...
No WD40 still works BUT it doesn't stay atomized very long, so its like a 2 person job if you don't get back into the cab real quick. Everything here discussed about cold starting and which type of ether etc has not taken into consideration on the overall condition your engine is in. A tight...
yes online for around 1100$. Search the net under "ARB for a Rockwell 2.5 ton axle". There are installation write ups with pics somewhere on this site too. There is a slight clearance inssue when installing a ARB, so a little grinding is needed.
What Big Z said. I pulled a 460 engine off a ZF5 transmission last week and it was stuck bad. I have a engine cherry picker and a transmission jack with 4 way adjustment. I ended up putting in bolt/studs so I could measure the gap between it at different spots to make sure I didn't have it in a...
BTW, if you are in a area that drops below -10F a lot, you could install a 24vdc intake grid heater if you are constantly in a environment where the 120vac block heater isn't a option. I considered using a 12vdc intake heater from a Ford power stroke diesel until I found out my deuce fires right...
starter fluid usually has a lower percentage of ether than ether canister starting systems. starter fluid also contains a small amount of lubricant, as ether is a solvent. There are very few incidences (none in my 50 years around engines) of catastrophic engine failure from starter fluid...